At 4.15pm after 29 days 3028k and 32000m of climbing I reached the Coluseum and got off my bike to be met by Paula who had been travelling for about 8 hours (but at least I saved the Airfare).
Off doing the touristy bits for the next couple of days but will update this blog and add photos etc etc when I return home.
Today was a really hard day starting with a hot and busy 500m climb out of Viterbo to the East of Lago di Vico over Monte (forgotten name), I followed increasing rough and pot holey roads to the East of Lago di Bracciano where I stopped for my nosebag at the Spar. The roads improved after this but got busier and busier and I was desperate just to finish, resulting in cycling as hard as I could. I did not have a map of Roma but just followed signs to the Centre, on dual carriageways where I dont think I should be, but I didnt care I just wanted to finish. By now the signs to the Centre at stopped, so I guessed I was getting there, but before I went to the Coluseum I wanted to cycle to the Vatican City to clock up my 10th country. By now I was asking instructions from scooters at the traffic lights. One lady said "you are nearly there 1k down the hill, through the tunnel and turn left". No not another tunnel this time with the crazy Roman drivers. I shot down the hill cut in front of the bus and stayed in the middle of the bus lane and suddenly I was there.
After stopping for a photo in St Peter's square is was a shortish ride to the Coleseum, and that was it all done finished! I didn't know how I felt, apart from hot and needing a drink but as the evening wore on I felt happier and quite proud with what I have achieved. We had a lovely evening last night eating and drinking by the River Tiber until the early hours where we met a group of people trying to make Roma a more cycle friendly place (I only saw about 2 or 3 cyclists on my trip through Rome), he was amazed that I cycled here and gave me a T-shirt as a souvenier coinsidently with a Logo of a bike and the Coluseum on it!
Todays Stats
Distance 105.30k
Climb 1060m
Riding time 4:47:09
Average Speed 22.0kph
Total Time 6:30
Tuesday 6 July 2010
Sunday 4 July 2010
Bottom boils, bladders, groins and feet
Well you dont have to read it if you dont want to. But the biggest issue, in my opinion, for long distance cycling is saddle sores.
Despite regular creaming with Sudocream I have succumbed to the enevitable saddle sores, but on only 2 days have they become uncomfortable, the first was the Lake Constance day and the second the other day from Lido di Venice to Arrenta, and my theory is because both days are flat you dont move around much in the saddle, you are sat in the same place all day which causes the problem. Extra doses of sudocream and hilly days seem to have done the trick.
Another problem I had, certainly during the first week or so is the need to spend a penny, often I'm ok when cycling but as soon as I stop I need to go and I need to go straight away. I am not sure if it is partly due to all the coffee I am drinking in the morning, the cool weather I had in the first week, or just age. Often I did not have time to park the bike properly, I just straddle the bike and go, but dont worry, unlike Tim I have always missed the water bottles! The hotter weather and cutting down on the coffee seems to have helped.
Other issues include an itchy groin, well spend 10 hours a day in cycling shorts what do you expect.
And I have also had numb toes on my right foot since Germany. I think I have had this before, and the feeling returns a few days after stopping cycling.
The cure is to cream up and my daily ritual which seems to work is
Morning
Sudocream - saddle sores
Vasolene - groin
Factor 15 suncream for face (partly protected from the sun by helmet)
Factor 25 suncream for arms, legs & neck
Lipsol
Evening
Sudocream
Metanium (instead of the Vasolene)
Bite ease (in Italy I seem to grt loads of insect bites during a ride)
And maybe a top up at lunchtime.
This is partly to remind me for future tours, but I would be interested in your comments, both serious or amusing.
Despite regular creaming with Sudocream I have succumbed to the enevitable saddle sores, but on only 2 days have they become uncomfortable, the first was the Lake Constance day and the second the other day from Lido di Venice to Arrenta, and my theory is because both days are flat you dont move around much in the saddle, you are sat in the same place all day which causes the problem. Extra doses of sudocream and hilly days seem to have done the trick.
Another problem I had, certainly during the first week or so is the need to spend a penny, often I'm ok when cycling but as soon as I stop I need to go and I need to go straight away. I am not sure if it is partly due to all the coffee I am drinking in the morning, the cool weather I had in the first week, or just age. Often I did not have time to park the bike properly, I just straddle the bike and go, but dont worry, unlike Tim I have always missed the water bottles! The hotter weather and cutting down on the coffee seems to have helped.
Other issues include an itchy groin, well spend 10 hours a day in cycling shorts what do you expect.
And I have also had numb toes on my right foot since Germany. I think I have had this before, and the feeling returns a few days after stopping cycling.
The cure is to cream up and my daily ritual which seems to work is
Morning
Sudocream - saddle sores
Vasolene - groin
Factor 15 suncream for face (partly protected from the sun by helmet)
Factor 25 suncream for arms, legs & neck
Lipsol
Evening
Sudocream
Metanium (instead of the Vasolene)
Bite ease (in Italy I seem to grt loads of insect bites during a ride)
And maybe a top up at lunchtime.
This is partly to remind me for future tours, but I would be interested in your comments, both serious or amusing.
Day 28 - Siena to Viterbo
A pretty good but long day today in some lovely Tuscany & Lazio countryside.
I got away at 9.30 on another glorious day, but this time, after umpteen still days, I had my tailwind back. Soon after leaving Siena the roads became quiet which was a bonus as it was a main road (R2). I soon saw my first sign for Roma which said Roma 209k, this was a bit worrying as it would leave me on 2999k and I would have to do a few laps of the Coluseum to make the majic 3000k. But in true Italian style the next sign said Roma 216k, so considering I am taking minor roads tomorrow I should be ok. I also saw my first cycling tourists since the Alps, they just dont do it here, or France or Spain for that matter.
I had to take an early lunch in Podere Scala as today was the dreaded Sunday when all the shops are shut so I could not buy my normal nosebag of bananas, cereal bars and energy drinks. After lunch I immeadiatly fell asleep against the restaurant wall. I'm getting pretty tired as this is now my 15th consecutive days cycling.
The easy cycling continued after lunch until lake Bolsena. I decided to take the minor road to the west of the lake, this was pretty but also had 8ks of rutted gravel tracks. After this the roads became busy with people returning from the lakes.
I am looking forward to meeting Paula tomorrow and celebrated with a beer at Lake Bosena. Now what does the small print in the photo say....
I got away at 9.30 on another glorious day, but this time, after umpteen still days, I had my tailwind back. Soon after leaving Siena the roads became quiet which was a bonus as it was a main road (R2). I soon saw my first sign for Roma which said Roma 209k, this was a bit worrying as it would leave me on 2999k and I would have to do a few laps of the Coluseum to make the majic 3000k. But in true Italian style the next sign said Roma 216k, so considering I am taking minor roads tomorrow I should be ok. I also saw my first cycling tourists since the Alps, they just dont do it here, or France or Spain for that matter.
I had to take an early lunch in Podere Scala as today was the dreaded Sunday when all the shops are shut so I could not buy my normal nosebag of bananas, cereal bars and energy drinks. After lunch I immeadiatly fell asleep against the restaurant wall. I'm getting pretty tired as this is now my 15th consecutive days cycling.
The easy cycling continued after lunch until lake Bolsena. I decided to take the minor road to the west of the lake, this was pretty but also had 8ks of rutted gravel tracks. After this the roads became busy with people returning from the lakes.
I am looking forward to meeting Paula tomorrow and celebrated with a beer at Lake Bosena. Now what does the small print in the photo say....
Todays Stats
Distance 149.03k
Climb 1285m
Riding Time 6:07:27
Average speed 24.3kph (fastest so far)
Total time 9:31
Saturday 3 July 2010
Day 27 - Firenze to Siena
A short ride today (yippee), the original plan was to leave early in the morn before the heat and arrive in Siena shortly after lunch to view the sights.
I left at 1.45pm, not surprising after the very enjoyable evening the night before, but leaving in the heat of the day still feeling slightly fragile was not the best idea. Still it had to be done. I also took a slightly wrong oad out of Firenze and was heading for San Casciano when I cut through the narrow lanes to Greve in Chianti on the R222 where I wanted to be. It was along these lanes that I met a couple of pretty, black, young ladies dressed in tight white tops and pink shorts, and I'm sure they both tried to chat me up with "Ciao Bello". They should be careful, if they say that to everyone they could get picked up by some right weird blokes!
I stopped in Greve in Chianti for a late lunch suffering from heat (the temp on my computer was at 42C), tiredness and a hangover. Some coca cola food and sports energy drink seemed to help, and after lunch I cycled along some lovely rolling Tuscany countryside arriving in Siena at 7.30.
Just to give an idea of what I have been drinkig during a ride. On the full day to Firenze I drank 6 water bottles (4.2 litres), 1 litre of coke, 1 litre of gatorade (sports drink) and 1/2 litre of Iced tea. That's 6.7 litres during the ride and I normlly drink 1 litre of water both before and after a ride totalling 8.7 litres - which is nearly as much as a Rugby international day! Also since Richard left I have only had 1 beer in an evening apart from Firenze, therefore it is obviously everyone else's fault when I drink more than one beer.
I have just had a brief wander around town, and it is lovely, really relaxed great old buildings and Piazas with everyone just sitting out and chilling in the heat.
Thanks again for all your comments, please keep them coming. It's only 2 more days to go. Life without cycling is going to be weird but I really am looking forward to a couple of days in Rome with Paula, and then returning to them kidies.
Todays Stats
Distance 79.77k
Climb 1073m
Riding time 4:02:19
Average speed 19.7kph
Total time 6:03
I left at 1.45pm, not surprising after the very enjoyable evening the night before, but leaving in the heat of the day still feeling slightly fragile was not the best idea. Still it had to be done. I also took a slightly wrong oad out of Firenze and was heading for San Casciano when I cut through the narrow lanes to Greve in Chianti on the R222 where I wanted to be. It was along these lanes that I met a couple of pretty, black, young ladies dressed in tight white tops and pink shorts, and I'm sure they both tried to chat me up with "Ciao Bello". They should be careful, if they say that to everyone they could get picked up by some right weird blokes!
I stopped in Greve in Chianti for a late lunch suffering from heat (the temp on my computer was at 42C), tiredness and a hangover. Some coca cola food and sports energy drink seemed to help, and after lunch I cycled along some lovely rolling Tuscany countryside arriving in Siena at 7.30.
Just to give an idea of what I have been drinkig during a ride. On the full day to Firenze I drank 6 water bottles (4.2 litres), 1 litre of coke, 1 litre of gatorade (sports drink) and 1/2 litre of Iced tea. That's 6.7 litres during the ride and I normlly drink 1 litre of water both before and after a ride totalling 8.7 litres - which is nearly as much as a Rugby international day! Also since Richard left I have only had 1 beer in an evening apart from Firenze, therefore it is obviously everyone else's fault when I drink more than one beer.
I have just had a brief wander around town, and it is lovely, really relaxed great old buildings and Piazas with everyone just sitting out and chilling in the heat.
Thanks again for all your comments, please keep them coming. It's only 2 more days to go. Life without cycling is going to be weird but I really am looking forward to a couple of days in Rome with Paula, and then returning to them kidies.
Todays Stats
Distance 79.77k
Climb 1073m
Riding time 4:02:19
Average speed 19.7kph
Total time 6:03
Day 26 - Argenta to Firenze (Florence)
I was dreading today after yesterdays suffering, but was again surprised how one day you can feel totally diferent to another. It was a great ride on a hot and hilly day and to cap it off I stayed the night with Alec (Paulas cousin) his wife Nevie and their children, it was lovely to have some company again.
I got away at 9.30 and managed the first 40k at an average speed of 26kph, this took me to Castel Bolognese near Imola, and it was after here that the hills started. It had been 280k of flatlands across the Po basin where the biggest hill was the bridge over the Po, and I was looking forward to the hills for a few reasons. They are more scenic, more challenging, the traffic is slower, more bends (long straight roads are awful), quieter and because your hands more in different positions on the handle bars it means your pessure points on the saddle change resulting in a lot less pain in the nether regions. In fact today was virtually a pain free day.
I stopped for lunch in Palazzuolo after having climbed to 400m from about 30m, thinking that I would not get much higher but I was wrong. After lunch the road went up and up, but it was easy climbing with a gradient of about 4 - 6%. The roads were very quiet apart from the incessent noise of crickets and I reached the Passo Sambuca (1080m) folowed by another 1000m pass before decsending on a twisty but easy descent down to Borgo San Lorenzo. One more small climb followed where I crashed into a guy who ran across the road from behind a van without looking, we both stayed upright so no harm done, then an easy cruise to Firenze. I found Alec's address easy enough and even had time for a "birra grande" in the bar next door before they returned home.
We had a relaxing evening staying up until the early hours drinking wine, beer, eating pizza and taking a night time bike ride around the packed streets of Firenze. When I suggested we should put some bike lights on Nevie said "but we are only riding around the city". That's what is so great about biking in Italy, or most of Europe for that matter, it's so relaxed. So when we cycled down a one way street the wrong way with no lights, the police car coming against us just pulled in to let us go. I love it.
One possible reason why I was climbing quite well today is that I have developed my own theory for climbing based upon what some Pro cyclists do when cycling through tunnels (ref Day 24). They close one eye to improve their night vision & when I climb I close both eyes to see my white lycra vision!!!
Todays Stats
Distance 141.69k
Climb 1657m
Riding Time 6:31:32
Average Speed 21.7kph
Total Riding Time 9:37
I got away at 9.30 and managed the first 40k at an average speed of 26kph, this took me to Castel Bolognese near Imola, and it was after here that the hills started. It had been 280k of flatlands across the Po basin where the biggest hill was the bridge over the Po, and I was looking forward to the hills for a few reasons. They are more scenic, more challenging, the traffic is slower, more bends (long straight roads are awful), quieter and because your hands more in different positions on the handle bars it means your pessure points on the saddle change resulting in a lot less pain in the nether regions. In fact today was virtually a pain free day.
I stopped for lunch in Palazzuolo after having climbed to 400m from about 30m, thinking that I would not get much higher but I was wrong. After lunch the road went up and up, but it was easy climbing with a gradient of about 4 - 6%. The roads were very quiet apart from the incessent noise of crickets and I reached the Passo Sambuca (1080m) folowed by another 1000m pass before decsending on a twisty but easy descent down to Borgo San Lorenzo. One more small climb followed where I crashed into a guy who ran across the road from behind a van without looking, we both stayed upright so no harm done, then an easy cruise to Firenze. I found Alec's address easy enough and even had time for a "birra grande" in the bar next door before they returned home.
We had a relaxing evening staying up until the early hours drinking wine, beer, eating pizza and taking a night time bike ride around the packed streets of Firenze. When I suggested we should put some bike lights on Nevie said "but we are only riding around the city". That's what is so great about biking in Italy, or most of Europe for that matter, it's so relaxed. So when we cycled down a one way street the wrong way with no lights, the police car coming against us just pulled in to let us go. I love it.
One possible reason why I was climbing quite well today is that I have developed my own theory for climbing based upon what some Pro cyclists do when cycling through tunnels (ref Day 24). They close one eye to improve their night vision & when I climb I close both eyes to see my white lycra vision!!!
Todays Stats
Distance 141.69k
Climb 1657m
Riding Time 6:31:32
Average Speed 21.7kph
Total Riding Time 9:37
Day 25 - Lido di Venezia to Argenta
When I planned the trip I thought today was going to be an easy day as it is pan flat, and after the mountains I thought I would be fit and strong, but it was really hard today, partly because my bottom boils raised their ugly heads again (more of that in a separate post) but mainly because it was hot, very hot, too hot.
After a night of little sleep in a baking bedroom which was still 27C when I was up fighting the mosquitoes at 4pm, I decided the best way to start the day was with a refreshing swim in the sea. It was glorious, only one other person in there, but as a result I did not get away until 10.30. It was a lovely start cruising down the Lido 12k to it's most southerly point Alberoni where I caught a roll-on roll-off ferry to the next island Pellestrina. Again another short ride of about 10k to catch the ferry to Chioggia on the mainland. This ferry was typical of the Venice ferries which hold more than 100 people and plenty of bikes. Choigga was a bustling harbour down enjoying market day, after Choiggia I headed inland approximately due South, my aim being to cycle as far as I could to make the following day's ride to Florence (Firenze) as easy as possible.
It was midday by the time I left Chiogga and the temperature was starting to get uncomfortably hot. I mainly followed minor roads, and having to take a minor diversion due to roadworks on one of the bridges over the extensive canal system in this part of Italy I only made it to Loreo for lunch, only 44k cycled, not good.
When I stopped for lunch in an air con restaurant there were 2 things I had noticed that morning. Firstly, a large number of people, especially young women, were cycling electric bikes which is annoying because they cycle as fast as me putting very little effort in, but mainly because they will never be shaped like the lady in white if they only cycle electric bikes! The second thing I noticed was the number of young men now carrying man-bags (basically hand-bags). These bags are far worse than Chris Parker's one, I just don't get, why the bag, it's just wallet, phone, keys, that's it.
Anyhow, after my lunch I walked outside and it was like walking into an oven, horrendous, and I had loads of ks to cycle. The thermometer on my computer seems to be accurate in the shade but in the sun reads too high, when it reads 30C it is probably about 25C, this is the temp that my normal cycle mate Dave starts to melt, on this afternoon it read 39C, Dave (and also Bill & Richard) would all simply have turned into puddles on the road! I spent the most miserable afternoon of the trip so far biking a further 55k. What added to the misery was that as the roads were flat they were also very straight and the cars and lorries just shot past me. I was trying to keep to minor roads (white roads on my Michelin map, these Italian Michelin maps are nowhere near the same quality as the French ones), sometimes these roads were just dirt tracks and other times they were busy roads there was just no way of telling. The one brief highlight of the afternoon was the sun went in for seven minutes (yep, I timed it) it came out as I crossed the massive river Po.
My bottom boils (saddle sores) were becoming a bit of an issue as well, and I stopped in Tresigallo for Coca Cola and ice cream and an hours break. When I emerged it was after 6pm and a little cooler as I limped on another 30 odd ks to Argenta where I stopped for the night being quite concerned about my saddle sores as I had about 140k to ride the following day including crossing the Apennines.
Todays stats
Distance 133.09k
Climb 183m (basically pan flat)
Riding time 5:42:05
Average speed 23.3kph
Total time 9:41
After a night of little sleep in a baking bedroom which was still 27C when I was up fighting the mosquitoes at 4pm, I decided the best way to start the day was with a refreshing swim in the sea. It was glorious, only one other person in there, but as a result I did not get away until 10.30. It was a lovely start cruising down the Lido 12k to it's most southerly point Alberoni where I caught a roll-on roll-off ferry to the next island Pellestrina. Again another short ride of about 10k to catch the ferry to Chioggia on the mainland. This ferry was typical of the Venice ferries which hold more than 100 people and plenty of bikes. Choigga was a bustling harbour down enjoying market day, after Choiggia I headed inland approximately due South, my aim being to cycle as far as I could to make the following day's ride to Florence (Firenze) as easy as possible.
It was midday by the time I left Chiogga and the temperature was starting to get uncomfortably hot. I mainly followed minor roads, and having to take a minor diversion due to roadworks on one of the bridges over the extensive canal system in this part of Italy I only made it to Loreo for lunch, only 44k cycled, not good.
When I stopped for lunch in an air con restaurant there were 2 things I had noticed that morning. Firstly, a large number of people, especially young women, were cycling electric bikes which is annoying because they cycle as fast as me putting very little effort in, but mainly because they will never be shaped like the lady in white if they only cycle electric bikes! The second thing I noticed was the number of young men now carrying man-bags (basically hand-bags). These bags are far worse than Chris Parker's one, I just don't get, why the bag, it's just wallet, phone, keys, that's it.
Anyhow, after my lunch I walked outside and it was like walking into an oven, horrendous, and I had loads of ks to cycle. The thermometer on my computer seems to be accurate in the shade but in the sun reads too high, when it reads 30C it is probably about 25C, this is the temp that my normal cycle mate Dave starts to melt, on this afternoon it read 39C, Dave (and also Bill & Richard) would all simply have turned into puddles on the road! I spent the most miserable afternoon of the trip so far biking a further 55k. What added to the misery was that as the roads were flat they were also very straight and the cars and lorries just shot past me. I was trying to keep to minor roads (white roads on my Michelin map, these Italian Michelin maps are nowhere near the same quality as the French ones), sometimes these roads were just dirt tracks and other times they were busy roads there was just no way of telling. The one brief highlight of the afternoon was the sun went in for seven minutes (yep, I timed it) it came out as I crossed the massive river Po.
My bottom boils (saddle sores) were becoming a bit of an issue as well, and I stopped in Tresigallo for Coca Cola and ice cream and an hours break. When I emerged it was after 6pm and a little cooler as I limped on another 30 odd ks to Argenta where I stopped for the night being quite concerned about my saddle sores as I had about 140k to ride the following day including crossing the Apennines.
Todays stats
Distance 133.09k
Climb 183m (basically pan flat)
Riding time 5:42:05
Average speed 23.3kph
Total time 9:41
Day 24 - Pordone to Lido di Venezia
Firstly I'd like to apologise for the late posting of this post. Secondly I'd like to point out that it is nearly 4am local time therefore I have been drinking for some 9 hours therefore amongst other things my spelling may be somewhat erratic.
Anyhow, back to biking. When I woke this morning I wasn't sure whether the flat roads of last night had been a dream. After 7 days, 12 mountain passes and 13000m of climbing could those mountains really have disappeared by cycling through one tunnel? It was true, all I could see of the mountains as I headed off at 10.30 was a distant backdrop of what had been my constant companion for the last week.
Today was meant to be my rest day but due to an over ambitious plan, I had to bike to to the Lido di Venezia which is a narrow strip of land that protects Venice from the Adriatic Sea, to catch up to where I should be. By the time I started it was already hot, the road was pan flat and I just headed South stopping in Crepaldo for lunch, when asking the waitress to top up my water bottles, she half loaded them with ice before adding the water, what a star! But unfortunately by the time I wanted to drink the water it was already luke warm. (tip - in hot climates put one of your water bottles in your pannier, it keeps it cooler for longer).
I carried on heading south through Jeselo to Lido di Jeselo and after 3 weeks of cycling since Bolougne I finally saw the sea. What can I say? Not quite Broad Haven, Barrafundle, Freshwater East or any of the fantastic Pembrokeshire beaches, more like Southend except there was Sea not Mud and instead of the Golden Mile there was the Golden 10 miles. That is 10 miles of tat, slot machines and hotels,, ummm. I carried on South West to the Point Sabbioini where I wanted to catch the ferry to the Lido di Venizia. At the ticket office I was told:
"you need to check with the captain to see if the boat will take bikes. the boats are small"
Fortunately the Captain said yes, and after a short ferry journey I was on what was once the most famous Seaside Resort in Italy, now looking a little tired but much better than the Lido di Jesolo. Aftyer finding my hotel I bought some swimming cossies and went for a swim in the small public swimming area, the vast majority of beaches being owned by hotels. After biking from England to the Adriatic, and now baking in the heat i need ed a swim, and it was great.
After a a quick shower in the hotel I headed to Venice for the evening, I wasn't really that keen to go but felt I should as I was so close to it. The canals and narrow streets were ok but St Marks Square was a disapiontment due to the amount of scaffolding and grubby buildings and after a couple of hours I felt happy to be heading back to the Lido.
Todays Stats
Distance 94.03k
Climb 119m
Riding Time 4:09:56
Average Speed 22.5kph
Total time 6:30
Anyhow, back to biking. When I woke this morning I wasn't sure whether the flat roads of last night had been a dream. After 7 days, 12 mountain passes and 13000m of climbing could those mountains really have disappeared by cycling through one tunnel? It was true, all I could see of the mountains as I headed off at 10.30 was a distant backdrop of what had been my constant companion for the last week.
Today was meant to be my rest day but due to an over ambitious plan, I had to bike to to the Lido di Venezia which is a narrow strip of land that protects Venice from the Adriatic Sea, to catch up to where I should be. By the time I started it was already hot, the road was pan flat and I just headed South stopping in Crepaldo for lunch, when asking the waitress to top up my water bottles, she half loaded them with ice before adding the water, what a star! But unfortunately by the time I wanted to drink the water it was already luke warm. (tip - in hot climates put one of your water bottles in your pannier, it keeps it cooler for longer).
I carried on heading south through Jeselo to Lido di Jeselo and after 3 weeks of cycling since Bolougne I finally saw the sea. What can I say? Not quite Broad Haven, Barrafundle, Freshwater East or any of the fantastic Pembrokeshire beaches, more like Southend except there was Sea not Mud and instead of the Golden Mile there was the Golden 10 miles. That is 10 miles of tat, slot machines and hotels,, ummm. I carried on South West to the Point Sabbioini where I wanted to catch the ferry to the Lido di Venizia. At the ticket office I was told:
"you need to check with the captain to see if the boat will take bikes. the boats are small"
Fortunately the Captain said yes, and after a short ferry journey I was on what was once the most famous Seaside Resort in Italy, now looking a little tired but much better than the Lido di Jesolo. Aftyer finding my hotel I bought some swimming cossies and went for a swim in the small public swimming area, the vast majority of beaches being owned by hotels. After biking from England to the Adriatic, and now baking in the heat i need ed a swim, and it was great.
After a a quick shower in the hotel I headed to Venice for the evening, I wasn't really that keen to go but felt I should as I was so close to it. The canals and narrow streets were ok but St Marks Square was a disapiontment due to the amount of scaffolding and grubby buildings and after a couple of hours I felt happy to be heading back to the Lido.
Todays Stats
Distance 94.03k
Climb 119m
Riding Time 4:09:56
Average Speed 22.5kph
Total time 6:30
Wednesday 30 June 2010
Photos
Richards Photos:
Day 16 - Swiss national cycle route sign post, which way next?......
Day 18 - top of the Ofen pass ( pass del Fuorn)....
Day 18 - top of the Ofen pass ( pass del Fuorn) now which way down do we go?
Day 19 - Stelvio pass south side to Bormio, almost as impressive as the north side....
Day 20 - Struggling up the Passo di Gavia, pretty steep at this point and gets steeper sooner after.
Brendan's Photos...
The infamous Stelvio climb from the north side....
Lost in Orchard near Mollaro.......
Big bottom lip on the train to Trento...
Brendan, Bill and Jurgen having a small cake in the Black Forest......
.
Tuesday 29 June 2010
Day 23 - Cortina to Pordone
Blimey! what a difference a day makes, my legs came back, and all is right with the world after a fab day's cycling.
I left at 9.45 on yet another scorcher, the climbing started straight away on my last "Big Pass" of the Alps the 2233m Passo di Giau, this is one of the toughest climbs in the Alps...........from the South side but I was climbing it on the slightly easier north side. The first half was pretty steady then there were a couple of steep sections at 10 - 12% before an easier finish. I'm not sure if I have mentioned before that climbs up to 8% I find ok, anything steeper, and you are searching for a lower gear that doesn't exist, and end up really struggling, pulling the handlebars, and it is these climbs that take it out of you at the end of the day. My best advice is to plan to do the hard climb in the morning when you are fresher, I think this is why I struggled yesterday afternoon.
View from the top of Passo di Giau showing the road and yet more spectacular scenery
Anyhow the views from the top were superb (PHOTO to be added), also the climb was quite quiet, and more importantly I felt good. The desent was, as expected, really steep and full of hairpins, the road had a good surface apart from places which had been snow and ice damaged resulting in mini trenches in the road! I was on the brakes the whole time, desending well, but it is really tiring on your arms 14ks of braking. There were also loads of cyclists climbing the classic side. For once outnumbering the motorbikes (Martin you really do need to get out here on your motorbike)
After the desent to Selva di Cadore there was an easy (400m) climb to the top of Forcella Staulanza (1773m) I had lunch here and chatted to 5 English cyclists who were out here doing some "Etape" training, and who I had briefly met on the Passo di Gaiu. One of them remarked how quick I desended it. I must admit my desending has improved and I flew down the Forcella Staulanza, overtaking cars and really enjoying an easy desent. After 30k of downhill I came to road works traffic lights, straight after that there was another tunnel (I hate tunnels) and even though this was well lit, I just shot through it as fast as I could and got over 60kph and dropped all the cars that were behind me.
Feeling rather good with myself I started my 12th, last, and smallest Alpine climb. Just 400m climb up to Passo San Osvaldo at 827m. I thought this would just be an ordainary road but it was spectacular gorge which had recently being damned. As a result it had being resurfaced but was quiet and superb cycling country. The gradual desent was even better just following the river valley down another wondeful gorge. I stopped in Barcis by a turquiose coloured lake had an ice cream (I was too early for pasta) and relaxed. I left Barcis and tried to follow the old road to avoid the tunnels I managed to get around the first one, but then got stuck, and had one more beast to get through, a 3954m tunnel. I was amazed that they allow cyclists through these (some they dont, but on this one there was no "cycling forbidden" sign). I had no option but to go for it. The first part was slightly up hill but the last 3k were slightly down hill and I just blasted it, the only good thing about this tunnel is that they are lovely and cool, but what I hate is the noise. In this one it was deafening. The air blowers were very noisey but these are totally drowned out by the echoing noise of lorries and motorbikes, and you can only hope in the dim light, that the drivers who probably still have their sunglasses on can see you. (One last note on tunnels then I will stop whinging - one of the cyclists I had met at lunchtime had once met a pro cyclist said that their technique on the mountain pass tunnels (which are hardly lit at all) is to close one eye for about 30secs before entering the tunnel, so when you open it as you enter the tunnel you have some night vision so you dont have to slow down much!!!)
Well I got through the tunnel ok, nearly overshot a hairpin bend, went around another corner, then looked up and all the mountains had gone, all in front of me was flat land. It was quite amazing it was like being transferred to a different world - really weird. All that was left was an easy 21k to Pordenone. This was actually gradually down hill (but it looked flat) and I flew it, enjoying cycling on good, smooth, flatish roads again. I struggled to find a hotel in Pordenone and ended up in a 4 star hotel (79Euros inc Breakfast most I've spent, in the mountains were there are loads of hotels it was between 30 - 45Euros). I thought I'd better smarten myself up as I probably reeked having being on the bike for 7 hours and it was still 28C at 8pm, so I thought I would take my helmet off, that would impress them!!!
Todays stats
Distance 146.02k
Climb 2171m
Riding Time 7:02:04
Average speed 20.7kph
Total Time 10:27
I left at 9.45 on yet another scorcher, the climbing started straight away on my last "Big Pass" of the Alps the 2233m Passo di Giau, this is one of the toughest climbs in the Alps...........from the South side but I was climbing it on the slightly easier north side. The first half was pretty steady then there were a couple of steep sections at 10 - 12% before an easier finish. I'm not sure if I have mentioned before that climbs up to 8% I find ok, anything steeper, and you are searching for a lower gear that doesn't exist, and end up really struggling, pulling the handlebars, and it is these climbs that take it out of you at the end of the day. My best advice is to plan to do the hard climb in the morning when you are fresher, I think this is why I struggled yesterday afternoon.
View from the top of Passo di Giau showing the road and yet more spectacular scenery
Anyhow the views from the top were superb (PHOTO to be added), also the climb was quite quiet, and more importantly I felt good. The desent was, as expected, really steep and full of hairpins, the road had a good surface apart from places which had been snow and ice damaged resulting in mini trenches in the road! I was on the brakes the whole time, desending well, but it is really tiring on your arms 14ks of braking. There were also loads of cyclists climbing the classic side. For once outnumbering the motorbikes (Martin you really do need to get out here on your motorbike)
After the desent to Selva di Cadore there was an easy (400m) climb to the top of Forcella Staulanza (1773m) I had lunch here and chatted to 5 English cyclists who were out here doing some "Etape" training, and who I had briefly met on the Passo di Gaiu. One of them remarked how quick I desended it. I must admit my desending has improved and I flew down the Forcella Staulanza, overtaking cars and really enjoying an easy desent. After 30k of downhill I came to road works traffic lights, straight after that there was another tunnel (I hate tunnels) and even though this was well lit, I just shot through it as fast as I could and got over 60kph and dropped all the cars that were behind me.
Feeling rather good with myself I started my 12th, last, and smallest Alpine climb. Just 400m climb up to Passo San Osvaldo at 827m. I thought this would just be an ordainary road but it was spectacular gorge which had recently being damned. As a result it had being resurfaced but was quiet and superb cycling country. The gradual desent was even better just following the river valley down another wondeful gorge. I stopped in Barcis by a turquiose coloured lake had an ice cream (I was too early for pasta) and relaxed. I left Barcis and tried to follow the old road to avoid the tunnels I managed to get around the first one, but then got stuck, and had one more beast to get through, a 3954m tunnel. I was amazed that they allow cyclists through these (some they dont, but on this one there was no "cycling forbidden" sign). I had no option but to go for it. The first part was slightly up hill but the last 3k were slightly down hill and I just blasted it, the only good thing about this tunnel is that they are lovely and cool, but what I hate is the noise. In this one it was deafening. The air blowers were very noisey but these are totally drowned out by the echoing noise of lorries and motorbikes, and you can only hope in the dim light, that the drivers who probably still have their sunglasses on can see you. (One last note on tunnels then I will stop whinging - one of the cyclists I had met at lunchtime had once met a pro cyclist said that their technique on the mountain pass tunnels (which are hardly lit at all) is to close one eye for about 30secs before entering the tunnel, so when you open it as you enter the tunnel you have some night vision so you dont have to slow down much!!!)
Well I got through the tunnel ok, nearly overshot a hairpin bend, went around another corner, then looked up and all the mountains had gone, all in front of me was flat land. It was quite amazing it was like being transferred to a different world - really weird. All that was left was an easy 21k to Pordenone. This was actually gradually down hill (but it looked flat) and I flew it, enjoying cycling on good, smooth, flatish roads again. I struggled to find a hotel in Pordenone and ended up in a 4 star hotel (79Euros inc Breakfast most I've spent, in the mountains were there are loads of hotels it was between 30 - 45Euros). I thought I'd better smarten myself up as I probably reeked having being on the bike for 7 hours and it was still 28C at 8pm, so I thought I would take my helmet off, that would impress them!!!
Todays stats
Distance 146.02k
Climb 2171m
Riding Time 7:02:04
Average speed 20.7kph
Total Time 10:27
Monday 28 June 2010
Day 22 - Canazei to Cortina
Without doubt my hardest day. My legs went today, completely shot.
The day started with catching up with my blogs. The first question when I checked into the hotel in Canazei was not "how much does the room cost" or "does it have ensuite" but "do you have internet". Yes was the answer, but unfortunately as I found out later it was down. Therefore the start of day 22 was to find an internet site I could use. By the time this was accomplished it was 11.30 before I set off on another hot and sunny morn.
The route I was going to follow was a classic route around the Dolomite peaks and basically follows the route of a cycling sportif called Maratona iles Dolomites. 11000 people ride this every year and it is on my "To Do List" and it seems like half the cyclists in Italy wear the white cycling top to prove they have ridden it. Todays ride started with an 800m climb to the top of the Passo Sella (2244m) it was a stunning climb, a group of roadies passed me half way up and I battled to hang on to the slower ones, which I think miffed them, only losing them in the last couple of k.
There was a great but short desent before an easyish climb to the Passo Gardena (2121m) and a long desent followed to Corvara (1426m) before the last climb to Passo Valparola (2200m), even though this climb was not that long, it was pretty steep, my legs just went, it was a real struggle I was stopping after climbing every 150m. And to cap it all near the top a nordic skier climbing the slope on special roller blades passed me while I was having yet another break, and even though SHE was the fittest girlie I have seen on the trip I could not catch her!
A long desent to Cortina followed. I found a hotel in the town centre with internet, had a massive meal, watched Brazil show the world how to play football, only one beer (one good thing about cycling on your own is that the beer intake drops dramatically) and had an early night so hopefully I will be feeling better for my last day in the Alps which is just about to start.
The Dolomites are, in my opinion, the most dramatic and picturesque mountains I have ever seen. The only problem with cycling them is that you only need 2 gears , top one and bottom one. There is no flat ground.
Todays stats
Distance 69.83k
Climb 1831m
Riding Time 4.10.38
Average speed 16.7kph
Total time 7.06
The day started with catching up with my blogs. The first question when I checked into the hotel in Canazei was not "how much does the room cost" or "does it have ensuite" but "do you have internet". Yes was the answer, but unfortunately as I found out later it was down. Therefore the start of day 22 was to find an internet site I could use. By the time this was accomplished it was 11.30 before I set off on another hot and sunny morn.
The route I was going to follow was a classic route around the Dolomite peaks and basically follows the route of a cycling sportif called Maratona iles Dolomites. 11000 people ride this every year and it is on my "To Do List" and it seems like half the cyclists in Italy wear the white cycling top to prove they have ridden it. Todays ride started with an 800m climb to the top of the Passo Sella (2244m) it was a stunning climb, a group of roadies passed me half way up and I battled to hang on to the slower ones, which I think miffed them, only losing them in the last couple of k.
There was a great but short desent before an easyish climb to the Passo Gardena (2121m) and a long desent followed to Corvara (1426m) before the last climb to Passo Valparola (2200m), even though this climb was not that long, it was pretty steep, my legs just went, it was a real struggle I was stopping after climbing every 150m. And to cap it all near the top a nordic skier climbing the slope on special roller blades passed me while I was having yet another break, and even though SHE was the fittest girlie I have seen on the trip I could not catch her!
A long desent to Cortina followed. I found a hotel in the town centre with internet, had a massive meal, watched Brazil show the world how to play football, only one beer (one good thing about cycling on your own is that the beer intake drops dramatically) and had an early night so hopefully I will be feeling better for my last day in the Alps which is just about to start.
The Dolomites are, in my opinion, the most dramatic and picturesque mountains I have ever seen. The only problem with cycling them is that you only need 2 gears , top one and bottom one. There is no flat ground.
Todays stats
Distance 69.83k
Climb 1831m
Riding Time 4.10.38
Average speed 16.7kph
Total time 7.06
Sunday 27 June 2010
Day 21 Trento to Canazei
I had a bit of a decision to make. If I was to complete the "Home to Rome" trip I had to take the train back to where I caught it in Mollaro and start cycling from there, however this meant another climb which would make it impossible to get to Corvara where I had hoped to get to. I decided to take the train, mad I know, but I want to make the complete trip. NOTE: This was acceptable for Mark Beaumont in his Round the world Record, after his crash with a car, so it was good enough for me.
We got up early as my train was at 8.25am and Richard had a 95k bike ride to Verona airport. Checked out at 8.00am, DISASTER, I could not find my Caxton Euro Card. I paid for the food last night in town and left the card there (must have been looking elsewhere). I paid with my UK bankcard and we headed back to the Restaurant. They could not find it, there were different staff, they suggested for me to come back after 10am when they could ring someone and ask where the card had been put, it was all a bit vague. I had to make a quick decision, and decided to cancel the card and head for the train station. Richard and I said our goodbyes and parted. It was great to have his company for the last week, we had a really good time with some tough climbing, great desents and good beer drinking especially at the tops of the Fluelapass and the Ofenpass.
I just made the train for the 50 minute journey back to Mollaro (Note on price 2.9Euros for me 1 Euro for the bike and there was room for 38 bikes. Great value). It was already quite warm as I heaed back up north along the hilly roads through the villages we cycled yesterday. At Dermula I joined the S43D and started heading East. I slowly climbed through umpteen little villages up to the Passo della Mendola (1343m), it was a boring climb and getting quite hot, but somewhere on the climb I passed the 2000k mark. A quick stop at the top and then the desent. I was hoping not to desend too far as I would have to climb all that height again. But I was wrong. The east side of the Passo della Mendola is like a cliff face and the road twists through 13 hairpins down the side of it. The road was great, but like a race track. As it was a Sunday the Italian motorbike racers were out to join the German motorbikes, add to that cars and very fit Italian cyclists all racing each other down the mountain, trying to avoid the cars and motorbikes coming up, great stuff. At one point a Merc overtook me, it was then overtaken by a cyclist and at the same time a motorbike overtaking the lot, while still trying to avoid the traffic coming uphill. Crazy.
The only downside of the desent (if you parden the pun) is that it seemed to never stop. I just keeped going down and down until I reached Ora at an EL of just 250m. This valley, just south of Bolzano is absolutely lovely, but baking hot. I stopped in Ora for food and drink before the inevitable climb. I normally like the heat but this was getting too much, but I had no choice and toiled away on what was busy roads. I slowly climbed back up to 1110m and was not even rewarded with another "Passo". In some ways this was good as it meant no desent, but I felt I dseerved one. I biked onto Cavalese and stopped to watch the football. Least said about that the better, Our defending was about as bad as the Linesmans performance (Stuart, I bet you have never done a blunder like that).
After that, the road slowly climbed through the skiing villages of Predazzo, Modena where I started to get my first views of the Dolomite peaks, before I arrived in Canazei at 8.10pm over 12 hours after checking out from the hotel, a long day.
Its looking like I am going to have to pass on my day off in Venice, I am pretty tired after 8 days in a row of cycling, but do not think I will be able to catch up on the distance I have lost today without skipping the rest day. On another point my normal cycling buddy, Dave was meant to join me from Trento to Venice, but due to work he could not come, this is a great shame for both of us. We have managed to sneak away every year for a biking trip since 2002.
Todays stats
Distance 122.04
Climb 2514m (most so far)
Riding time 6.37.51
Average speed 18.4kph
Total time 12.10
We got up early as my train was at 8.25am and Richard had a 95k bike ride to Verona airport. Checked out at 8.00am, DISASTER, I could not find my Caxton Euro Card. I paid for the food last night in town and left the card there (must have been looking elsewhere). I paid with my UK bankcard and we headed back to the Restaurant. They could not find it, there were different staff, they suggested for me to come back after 10am when they could ring someone and ask where the card had been put, it was all a bit vague. I had to make a quick decision, and decided to cancel the card and head for the train station. Richard and I said our goodbyes and parted. It was great to have his company for the last week, we had a really good time with some tough climbing, great desents and good beer drinking especially at the tops of the Fluelapass and the Ofenpass.
I just made the train for the 50 minute journey back to Mollaro (Note on price 2.9Euros for me 1 Euro for the bike and there was room for 38 bikes. Great value). It was already quite warm as I heaed back up north along the hilly roads through the villages we cycled yesterday. At Dermula I joined the S43D and started heading East. I slowly climbed through umpteen little villages up to the Passo della Mendola (1343m), it was a boring climb and getting quite hot, but somewhere on the climb I passed the 2000k mark. A quick stop at the top and then the desent. I was hoping not to desend too far as I would have to climb all that height again. But I was wrong. The east side of the Passo della Mendola is like a cliff face and the road twists through 13 hairpins down the side of it. The road was great, but like a race track. As it was a Sunday the Italian motorbike racers were out to join the German motorbikes, add to that cars and very fit Italian cyclists all racing each other down the mountain, trying to avoid the cars and motorbikes coming up, great stuff. At one point a Merc overtook me, it was then overtaken by a cyclist and at the same time a motorbike overtaking the lot, while still trying to avoid the traffic coming uphill. Crazy.
The only downside of the desent (if you parden the pun) is that it seemed to never stop. I just keeped going down and down until I reached Ora at an EL of just 250m. This valley, just south of Bolzano is absolutely lovely, but baking hot. I stopped in Ora for food and drink before the inevitable climb. I normally like the heat but this was getting too much, but I had no choice and toiled away on what was busy roads. I slowly climbed back up to 1110m and was not even rewarded with another "Passo". In some ways this was good as it meant no desent, but I felt I dseerved one. I biked onto Cavalese and stopped to watch the football. Least said about that the better, Our defending was about as bad as the Linesmans performance (Stuart, I bet you have never done a blunder like that).
After that, the road slowly climbed through the skiing villages of Predazzo, Modena where I started to get my first views of the Dolomite peaks, before I arrived in Canazei at 8.10pm over 12 hours after checking out from the hotel, a long day.
Its looking like I am going to have to pass on my day off in Venice, I am pretty tired after 8 days in a row of cycling, but do not think I will be able to catch up on the distance I have lost today without skipping the rest day. On another point my normal cycling buddy, Dave was meant to join me from Trento to Venice, but due to work he could not come, this is a great shame for both of us. We have managed to sneak away every year for a biking trip since 2002.
Todays stats
Distance 122.04
Climb 2514m (most so far)
Riding time 6.37.51
Average speed 18.4kph
Total time 12.10
Saturday 26 June 2010
Day 20 Sta Caterina to Trento
We cheated! Like many of the top Pro cyclists we cheated. We caught a train. On a day that started so well ended up being lost in an orchard and catching the train to Trento.
It was another lovely day as we started the Passo di Gavia at 9.45am (EL 1700m). The first third was quite steady through the trees.We got above the treeline at about 2000m when the views opened up, but it is not the prettiest of climbs all a bit bleak. The roads were also narrow and quite rough. At about 2300m it became very steep for a k or so, up to 17% the steepest so far (where was my white lycra lady!), and then at last the slope eases and the last couple of k were fairly flat. The lake at the top was still frozen and there was still lots of snow. As we had a long day we did not stop for long at the top (2658m) and started our desent.
The desent was rough an very twisty at first and after dropping a couple of hundred metres we turned a corner and were straight into a tunnel. Now I knew about the tunnel as I checked the map and had rembered to put my normal glasses on and not my sunglasses, but I had forgotten to put my lights on. Ooops. What do you do. The tunnel is virtually pitch black. If you stop, the cars behind may hit you, so you just carry on. After 100m of skidding on the wet trying to slow down, I saw a motorbike coming towards me, aaah if I miss the light on the right I should be ok, and so I was. It was more hairy then yesterdays tunnel. I regrouped with Richard (who also had forgotten to put his lights on) and we carried on. The next part of the desent was incredibly narrow (much narrower than hampshire lanes) but with a huge drop on one side. Fortunately it had been resurfaced due to the Tour of Italy coming down the same desent. It was great, a bit dicey, but fun. The last part opened up into normal roads and before we new it we had dropped to 1250m and had started the Passo del Tonale.
This was a drag climb through ski resort country. We stopped for lunch at the top (1881m) and then had a fantastic 40k desent to Cles. The roads were wide, not steep, but with lovely sweeping corners. The highlight of the desent was overtaking a motorbike who was obviously keepint to th 50k speedlimit. HeHe. We stopped for an icecream in Cles and it all went wrong.
The road after Cles the S43 soon joined with the S43D and from then on cyclists were forbidden as the road was classified as an Autostrada even though it was only single lane. We followed the old road through Taio, Segno and Tora, climbing up and down the the sides of the valley, before ending up in Mollaro. Here the road seemed to stop. We saw a cyclist and asked him the way. All he said was the road was "Closed" and that we must bike back 14k to Cles and follow the hills to Trento. This was not an option, we followed our noses down the valley along gravel tracks and minor roads before ending up in an orchard. It was now well gone 6pm. We headed back to Mollaro just as a train was due, jumped on it for the last 25k to Trento arriving at about 7.15pm.
Trento is a lovely town baking hot as it is only 250m above sea level. We quickly found a fab 3 star hotel that gives a 10% discount for cyclists only 45Euros each inc breakfast (pretty damn good I reckon). After a quick wash headed into town. And what a town it was, it was packed. It must have been some festival as the were fireworks, loads of bands playing in the streets and packed with young and beautiful Italian girlies. Even at midnight all the bars were full, a good way to spend Richards last night.
I dont even think the white lycra lady would have got a second glance!
Todays stats
Distance 106.57k
Climb 1715m
Riding Time 5.28.24
Average Speed 19.4kph
Total time 10.08
It was another lovely day as we started the Passo di Gavia at 9.45am (EL 1700m). The first third was quite steady through the trees.We got above the treeline at about 2000m when the views opened up, but it is not the prettiest of climbs all a bit bleak. The roads were also narrow and quite rough. At about 2300m it became very steep for a k or so, up to 17% the steepest so far (where was my white lycra lady!), and then at last the slope eases and the last couple of k were fairly flat. The lake at the top was still frozen and there was still lots of snow. As we had a long day we did not stop for long at the top (2658m) and started our desent.
The desent was rough an very twisty at first and after dropping a couple of hundred metres we turned a corner and were straight into a tunnel. Now I knew about the tunnel as I checked the map and had rembered to put my normal glasses on and not my sunglasses, but I had forgotten to put my lights on. Ooops. What do you do. The tunnel is virtually pitch black. If you stop, the cars behind may hit you, so you just carry on. After 100m of skidding on the wet trying to slow down, I saw a motorbike coming towards me, aaah if I miss the light on the right I should be ok, and so I was. It was more hairy then yesterdays tunnel. I regrouped with Richard (who also had forgotten to put his lights on) and we carried on. The next part of the desent was incredibly narrow (much narrower than hampshire lanes) but with a huge drop on one side. Fortunately it had been resurfaced due to the Tour of Italy coming down the same desent. It was great, a bit dicey, but fun. The last part opened up into normal roads and before we new it we had dropped to 1250m and had started the Passo del Tonale.
This was a drag climb through ski resort country. We stopped for lunch at the top (1881m) and then had a fantastic 40k desent to Cles. The roads were wide, not steep, but with lovely sweeping corners. The highlight of the desent was overtaking a motorbike who was obviously keepint to th 50k speedlimit. HeHe. We stopped for an icecream in Cles and it all went wrong.
The road after Cles the S43 soon joined with the S43D and from then on cyclists were forbidden as the road was classified as an Autostrada even though it was only single lane. We followed the old road through Taio, Segno and Tora, climbing up and down the the sides of the valley, before ending up in Mollaro. Here the road seemed to stop. We saw a cyclist and asked him the way. All he said was the road was "Closed" and that we must bike back 14k to Cles and follow the hills to Trento. This was not an option, we followed our noses down the valley along gravel tracks and minor roads before ending up in an orchard. It was now well gone 6pm. We headed back to Mollaro just as a train was due, jumped on it for the last 25k to Trento arriving at about 7.15pm.
Trento is a lovely town baking hot as it is only 250m above sea level. We quickly found a fab 3 star hotel that gives a 10% discount for cyclists only 45Euros each inc breakfast (pretty damn good I reckon). After a quick wash headed into town. And what a town it was, it was packed. It must have been some festival as the were fireworks, loads of bands playing in the streets and packed with young and beautiful Italian girlies. Even at midnight all the bars were full, a good way to spend Richards last night.
I dont even think the white lycra lady would have got a second glance!
Todays stats
Distance 106.57k
Climb 1715m
Riding Time 5.28.24
Average Speed 19.4kph
Total time 10.08
Friday 25 June 2010
Day 19 Prato to Sta Caterina (Passo del Stelvio)
The infamous Stelvio climb from the north side
This was to be one of my highlights of the trip. When planning the route lots of things changed but never the route over the Passo del Stelvio probably the best Alpine climb there is and it did not disappoint.
We started on a warm and sunny morning at 9.15 from the bike shop in the centre if town having bought energy drinks and bars. The climb started straight away, it was quite easy at first as like many it followed the river valley. After a few minutes I met my first British cycling tourist of the trip and had to stop and talk. He was crazy Chris and was fully laden with a tent, hiking boots, beer, and an inflatable raft (which only weighs 2kg - only i weigh everything to a gramme) what was more impressive was that he had stopped to roll a cigarette! He had been biking for 4 weeks and had no idea where he was going or for how long. a totally relaxed guy. Back on the bike the climb remained steady and the road busy until the turn off to Solden, this was after climbing about 350m. From here on it was just people climbing the pass for fun. There were classic cars, soft top cars a few buses (many run by the appropriately named company called SAD), loads of cyclists, but outnumbering us were motorbikers.
Soon after the turnoff came the first of the 48 hairpins soon follwed by the second but then a long drag to the third, and so it went on. The climbing was steep about 8 -10 % but steady. After climbing about 900m to an elevation of 1800m there was a steep section of 12 - 14%. After that we were above the tree line and the climb stayed at a relentless 8 - 10%. The weather was perfect, warm but not too hot, that and the number of cyclists helped to keep going. With still another 700m to climb you can see the hotel at the top with maybe 25 hairpins between. You just have to count down the hairpins (which are all numbered) count down the metres left to climb and keep churning on - but I love it. Just when I was getting tired a beautiful young lady in white lycra passed and gave the comment "Respect man - with luggage". I returned the respect by locking my eyes on her and following her through the next 6 or 7 hairpins half a bike length behind - until I finally got dropped. But by then I was nearly there, and finally after 2 hours and 53 mins of climbing I reached the top - absolutely delighted. The views all the way up are fantastic, the road surface good - it is easily the best climb I have done - well worth all the hype. Richard finished a few mins later looking very comfortable. No celebratory beer this time, just another energy drink, photos and a rest. The climb is 1857m to an EL of 2758m and at this height I often feel a bit dizzy due to the altitude. The one slight disappointment was that the top of the pass is a bit tacky with all the souvenir shops. However this did not take anything away from the climb.
The desent was quite tough, cold at first through the snow fields, loads of hairpins (I think there are 38) and then the dreaded tunnels. When you are flying down a mouintain wearing shades and you enter a tunnel you cannot see anything. In one tunnel I just heard a vehicles horn I went around a corned and a bus was coming straight towards me, and I only just managed to squeeze by.
We stopped Bormio for a short break before heading up to Sta Caterina in order to make tomorrow's Passo di Gavia shorter. We soon found ourselves in the middle of a cycle race "Race across the Alps" not too sure what it is, but it seems like all thge riders had support cars and were riding alone like a time trial - must check it out later. Just as we approached Sta Caterina another cyclist caught us upand had a chat as he recognised Richard's Wallace And Gromit cycling top from the Stelvio pass. All good fun to end another hard but great day.
Todays Stats
Distance 60.07k
Climb 2343m
Riding time 4:29:05
Average speed 13.3kph (well it was steep)
Total time 7:37
Day 19 Stelviopass Italy
Blog Updated By Paula .....
At 12.04 I received a text from Brendan to say......
"Well I made it to the top of the Stelvio. Epic Climb best ever. Waiting for Richard. Weather perfect."
About half an hour later I spoke to him. He was with Richard who had arrived 20 mins after him. He said it was the best ever cycling he had ever done and they both felt on top of the world. There were loads of cyclists out and the weather is fantastic.
When I told him where I was he said that he didn't know what Sainsburys was!!!!! Life goes on.....
WELL DONE TO YOU BOTH !!!!:):):) Enjoy the desent not too fast!!!
Paula xx
At 12.04 I received a text from Brendan to say......
"Well I made it to the top of the Stelvio. Epic Climb best ever. Waiting for Richard. Weather perfect."
About half an hour later I spoke to him. He was with Richard who had arrived 20 mins after him. He said it was the best ever cycling he had ever done and they both felt on top of the world. There were loads of cyclists out and the weather is fantastic.
When I told him where I was he said that he didn't know what Sainsburys was!!!!! Life goes on.....
WELL DONE TO YOU BOTH !!!!:):):) Enjoy the desent not too fast!!!
Paula xx
Thursday 24 June 2010
Day 18 Zernez to Pratto allo Stelvio
After yesterdays decision to split the long stage in 2 and abandon the rest day, today was now a short and easyish day with just the one major pass The Ofenpass.
It was a relaxed start at 10.50 on a warm and sunny morning. The climbing started straight away, quite steep at first, before easing off to a mini top at 1900m. After a short desent of 150m the climb started again. It was pretty easy until the last 1k where it ramped up to 11 percent and we reached the top of the Ofenpass (2147m) at about 1.15. It was a beautifull climb in what is the only national pass. There are loads of walking paths from the side of the roads. The road had few cars, quite a few cyclists and hundreds of motorcyclists. I have always found the relationship between cyclists and motobikers a good one. They always give us plenty of room when they overtake, and we are both basically doing the same thing- touring on bikes. They think we are mad and we think they are cheating- but there is one difference and that is we can drink beer during a ride!
This is precisely what we did. A couple of large beers at the restaurant on the top of the pass. We were joined by a swiss couple of cycling tourists (Chris and Doreen) and swapped tales while enjoying the views - this is the life. One bit of info we discovered was the little town of Trubbach where we stayed is famous for Martina Hingus falling off her horse, I also think she came from there. The other bit of local news is that we were in bear country there is at least one roaming around killing sheep but not yet cyclists!
After a long liquid lunch it was time for a long desent to Pratto (900m). The desent was superb with a new high speed of 72.5kph for me and 72.4kph for Richard - that's what our computers said - HeHe!
We stopped to view a UNESCO Convent as recommended by Chris and Doreen and then continued the desent into Italy and onto Pratto arriving at about 5.45pm to complete an easy and very enjoyable day. One point to note is that we may be in Italy but in this region the locals all still speak German.
Todays Stats
Distance: 59.32k
Climb: 902m
Riding Time: 2:53:32
Average Speed 20.4kph
Total Time 7.06
It was a relaxed start at 10.50 on a warm and sunny morning. The climbing started straight away, quite steep at first, before easing off to a mini top at 1900m. After a short desent of 150m the climb started again. It was pretty easy until the last 1k where it ramped up to 11 percent and we reached the top of the Ofenpass (2147m) at about 1.15. It was a beautifull climb in what is the only national pass. There are loads of walking paths from the side of the roads. The road had few cars, quite a few cyclists and hundreds of motorcyclists. I have always found the relationship between cyclists and motobikers a good one. They always give us plenty of room when they overtake, and we are both basically doing the same thing- touring on bikes. They think we are mad and we think they are cheating- but there is one difference and that is we can drink beer during a ride!
This is precisely what we did. A couple of large beers at the restaurant on the top of the pass. We were joined by a swiss couple of cycling tourists (Chris and Doreen) and swapped tales while enjoying the views - this is the life. One bit of info we discovered was the little town of Trubbach where we stayed is famous for Martina Hingus falling off her horse, I also think she came from there. The other bit of local news is that we were in bear country there is at least one roaming around killing sheep but not yet cyclists!
After a long liquid lunch it was time for a long desent to Pratto (900m). The desent was superb with a new high speed of 72.5kph for me and 72.4kph for Richard - that's what our computers said - HeHe!
We stopped to view a UNESCO Convent as recommended by Chris and Doreen and then continued the desent into Italy and onto Pratto arriving at about 5.45pm to complete an easy and very enjoyable day. One point to note is that we may be in Italy but in this region the locals all still speak German.
Todays Stats
Distance: 59.32k
Climb: 902m
Riding Time: 2:53:32
Average Speed 20.4kph
Total Time 7.06
Wednesday 23 June 2010
Day 17 Trubach to Zernez
Climbing the Fluelapass through a wall of snow.
For once a warm and sunny morning and a good forecast for the next few days which is just as well as we are climbing over the Alps. We got away just before 11 am and could see fresh snow on the hills behind Trubach which is at 1650m and our climb over the Fluelapass is at 2383m should be interesting.
The ride started on a perfect cycle path on the flood defense wall of the Rhein with great views of the Alps behind. Even on a Wednesday morning there were loads of roller bladers, nordic walkers and cyclists out. We meandered through a couple of villages before leaving the Rhein for the last time and heading towards the Fluelapass. We followed the cycle trail along the valley floor. This was mainly the old road and the going was good until the trail forced us to climb up the side of the valley through the village of Fideris, this was a mistake as it added an unnecessary and hard 150m climb. From then we followed the main road to Klosters where we stopped for lunch.(couldn't see Prince Charles though!). After lunch we climbed to Davos. The road was busy and steep between 9 and 11 percent. The swiss car drivers are the most impatient I have met, they cut you up and always try to overtake when there is little room.
After a short desent to Davos which is at about 1500m the road became much quieter and a bit less steep and we gradually climbed through an ever increasing snowy backdrop to the top of the pass. Reaching it in time for the second half of the football. But at the hotel (there is nearly always a hotel or restaurant at the top of major passess) we were told :
"We are too high to have a TV you must cycle one more hour to find a TV"
"WHAT!!!!"
So instead had to settle for a couple of great beers called Schutengarten overlooking a still frozen lake, while texting my brother for footie updates. Apparently there was 6 inches of snow here the previous day. After that it was a great desent to Zernez arriving about 7pm.
It was a pretty tough day, but an excellant one, it was also Richard's first alpine pass and as a result we are splitting the next days proposed ride to Bormio into 2 shorter days but this will result in the loss of the rest day.
Stats
Distance: 94.26k
Climb: 2238 (by far the most!)
Riding Time : 5:31:54
Average Speed 17.0kph
Total time : 9.22
Paula adds : Check out this link for the Stelvio Pass Italy
http://www.fogonazos.es/2007/08/stelvio-pass-road-48-hairpin-turns-to.html
ADDITION TO POST :- "Found a great hotel in Zernez and the great news for Richard was that he did not have to share a bed with me for once!"
Tuesday 22 June 2010
Day 16 - Konstanz to Trubach
Today we cycled through 4 countries starting in Germany for about 1 km, before cycling most of it in Switzerland but dipping into Austria and Liechtenstein.
It was another cool day with a northerly breeze. The cold weather is driving the locals mad as it kills the tourist industry. The first half of the ride followed cycle route CH2 which followed a route on the south bank of Lake Bodensee, unfortunately it really followed the trainline and we crossed it about 5000 times, or at least it seemed like that, and we did not get many views of the lake. There were also at least 200 wobbly oldies on cycle tours most looked as if they had not ridden for 60 years.
After we got to the end of the lake we followed the Rhein as it headed south, we also dipped into Austria for a few minutes and it was here that I clocked up my 1000 miles. These landmarks are important. When I clocked up the 1000k I was cold and cycling in the rain from Luxembourg and it cheered me up for about 3 seconds!
After Austria we followed the Rhein and dipped into Leichtenstein for about 45 mins which was enough to cycle the whole country. We decided not to stay here as the thought of paying for 4* hotels with all those bankers was too much. We were advised to pop back over the Rhein to stay in "CHEAP" Switzerland where we stayed in a one horse town - shame the horse has bolted.
A longish but pan flat day but this is about to change.
Todays Stats:
Distance : 116.17
Climb : 293m
riding time : 5:22:35
Average speed : 21.6kph
Total riding time :7:05
It was another cool day with a northerly breeze. The cold weather is driving the locals mad as it kills the tourist industry. The first half of the ride followed cycle route CH2 which followed a route on the south bank of Lake Bodensee, unfortunately it really followed the trainline and we crossed it about 5000 times, or at least it seemed like that, and we did not get many views of the lake. There were also at least 200 wobbly oldies on cycle tours most looked as if they had not ridden for 60 years.
After we got to the end of the lake we followed the Rhein as it headed south, we also dipped into Austria for a few minutes and it was here that I clocked up my 1000 miles. These landmarks are important. When I clocked up the 1000k I was cold and cycling in the rain from Luxembourg and it cheered me up for about 3 seconds!
After Austria we followed the Rhein and dipped into Leichtenstein for about 45 mins which was enough to cycle the whole country. We decided not to stay here as the thought of paying for 4* hotels with all those bankers was too much. We were advised to pop back over the Rhein to stay in "CHEAP" Switzerland where we stayed in a one horse town - shame the horse has bolted.
A longish but pan flat day but this is about to change.
Todays Stats:
Distance : 116.17
Climb : 293m
riding time : 5:22:35
Average speed : 21.6kph
Total riding time :7:05
Monday 21 June 2010
Day 15 Schiltach to Konstanz
Today is the halfway point of my trip. Two weeks ago I left Andover and in 2 weeks I will arrive in Rome, barring disasters. However the hardest cycling is ahead of me and today was another long day after failing to get as far South as I had hoped yesterday.
I planned to start at 9.00am as I was due to meet Richard at the Rheinfalls at about 3.30pm. These are the largest waterfalls in Europe and are about an hours bike ride north of Zurich Airport where Richard was flying into. In the end I got away just before 10.00am as I had the opportunity to use the landlady's computer at the hotel.
Getting to write these blogs is one of my daily challenges as I don't seem to be able to write on my phone.So far I have waited an hour in Stavelot for the tourist info office to open, only to be told that they no longer have an internet computer. Walked for 30 mins in Luxembourg to find the internet cafe shut when I was told it would be open and queued in Kaiserslautern until 11pm at night to get into a smokey internet cafe. This blog is being texted to Paula who will kindly type it up. Thx.
Anyhow my ride started on a coolish morning with a long climb up to Hardt from here the road more or less stayed at about 700m but the temperature dropped to a chilly 11C. I didn't have time for lunch so it was again bananas and biscuits. I reached a new high point of the tour at 790m just after Blumberg, followed by my fastest speed of 67.5kph on the descent and reached the Rheinfalls at about 3.20, crossed the Rhein to the Swiss side and waited for Richard. The only problem was that he had also gone over the Rhein but to the German side, hence we missed each other!
After we eventually met we viewed the falls - which were pretty impressive - hid from the rain until it stopped and headed along the Rhein path to Konstantz. This is one of the longest cycle paths in Europe at about 1700k long and we were about to follow it for the next day and a half.
The path was mainly tarmac but on one gravel bit through the woods we saw about 3 very friendly red squirrels. We eventually got to Konstanz at 8.20, which is a pleasant enough town half in Germany and half in Switzerland, to end another long day in the saddle.
Todays Stats
Distance: 149.36k
Climb: 1363m
Riding Time: 7:00:18
Average Speed: 21.3kph
Total Time: 10.25
Paula Says : Hope I have copied this out right as its getting late, but you can change whatever another time night night!!
I planned to start at 9.00am as I was due to meet Richard at the Rheinfalls at about 3.30pm. These are the largest waterfalls in Europe and are about an hours bike ride north of Zurich Airport where Richard was flying into. In the end I got away just before 10.00am as I had the opportunity to use the landlady's computer at the hotel.
Getting to write these blogs is one of my daily challenges as I don't seem to be able to write on my phone.So far I have waited an hour in Stavelot for the tourist info office to open, only to be told that they no longer have an internet computer. Walked for 30 mins in Luxembourg to find the internet cafe shut when I was told it would be open and queued in Kaiserslautern until 11pm at night to get into a smokey internet cafe. This blog is being texted to Paula who will kindly type it up. Thx.
Anyhow my ride started on a coolish morning with a long climb up to Hardt from here the road more or less stayed at about 700m but the temperature dropped to a chilly 11C. I didn't have time for lunch so it was again bananas and biscuits. I reached a new high point of the tour at 790m just after Blumberg, followed by my fastest speed of 67.5kph on the descent and reached the Rheinfalls at about 3.20, crossed the Rhein to the Swiss side and waited for Richard. The only problem was that he had also gone over the Rhein but to the German side, hence we missed each other!
After we eventually met we viewed the falls - which were pretty impressive - hid from the rain until it stopped and headed along the Rhein path to Konstantz. This is one of the longest cycle paths in Europe at about 1700k long and we were about to follow it for the next day and a half.
The path was mainly tarmac but on one gravel bit through the woods we saw about 3 very friendly red squirrels. We eventually got to Konstanz at 8.20, which is a pleasant enough town half in Germany and half in Switzerland, to end another long day in the saddle.
Todays Stats
Distance: 149.36k
Climb: 1363m
Riding Time: 7:00:18
Average Speed: 21.3kph
Total Time: 10.25
Paula Says : Hope I have copied this out right as its getting late, but you can change whatever another time night night!!
Sunday 20 June 2010
Photos
Some photos of my trip so far
Day 3 - The Generals room in Poperinge (sleeping in a Museum - weird)
Day 4 - The Menin Gate through which all the British soldiers went on the way to The Western Front
Day 4 - The Tyne Cot Cemetery
Day 6 - Warning Sign (need this at home)
Day 7 - My room in the Botel - Maastricht
Day 8 - Border of Holland, Belgium and Germany
Day 9 - Vianden
Day 3 - The Generals room in Poperinge (sleeping in a Museum - weird)
Day 4 - The Menin Gate through which all the British soldiers went on the way to The Western Front
Day 4 - The Tyne Cot Cemetery
Day 6 - Warning Sign (need this at home)
Day 7 - My room in the Botel - Maastricht
Day 8 - Border of Holland, Belgium and Germany
Day 9 - Vianden
Day 14 - Karlsruhe to Schiltach
Not an early start today (no surprise there). Bill, his friend Jurgen and me headed off south on a cool and cloudy morning at just before midday. It was great to have Jurgen as he new all the cycle paths and all I had to do was follow, it is enjoyable cycling without having to think of where you are going. After 40k we stopped in Gernsbach (photo to follow)and had the traditional coffee and cake. Not long after this Bill and Jurgen took the tram back and I was on my own again.
It was brilliant seeing Bill, Ali & the children again, being totally spoilt and having all my clothes washed and ironed (even those pesky pants).
I carried on following the Muhr river cycle path, the road steadily climbed up to Freudestadt. This is at 736m a new high point of the tour. It has Germany's biggest square and first nudist hotel. It was also here where I took a wrong turning adding 7k onto the trip. I was not happy as I was tired and cold. I pressed on now mainly downhill stopping for a pasta meal before ending up in Schilitach a picture postcard town at 8.20pm.
Looking forward to meeting up with Richard at the Rheinfall (Europes largest waterfall by volume) tomorrow. It will be a long day as I must have to bike about 105k to meet him and then another 50k to Konstantz. We will bike the next 5 1/2 days over the Swiss/Italian alps together to Trento
Todays stats
Distance 121.86k
Climb 1061m
Riding time 5:43:24
Average speed 21:2kph
Total Riding Time 9:23:00
It was brilliant seeing Bill, Ali & the children again, being totally spoilt and having all my clothes washed and ironed (even those pesky pants).
I carried on following the Muhr river cycle path, the road steadily climbed up to Freudestadt. This is at 736m a new high point of the tour. It has Germany's biggest square and first nudist hotel. It was also here where I took a wrong turning adding 7k onto the trip. I was not happy as I was tired and cold. I pressed on now mainly downhill stopping for a pasta meal before ending up in Schilitach a picture postcard town at 8.20pm.
Looking forward to meeting up with Richard at the Rheinfall (Europes largest waterfall by volume) tomorrow. It will be a long day as I must have to bike about 105k to meet him and then another 50k to Konstantz. We will bike the next 5 1/2 days over the Swiss/Italian alps together to Trento
Todays stats
Distance 121.86k
Climb 1061m
Riding time 5:43:24
Average speed 21:2kph
Total Riding Time 9:23:00
Saturday 19 June 2010
Day 13 - Rest Day Karlsruhe
I woke up looking forward to a relaxing day of doing nothing. Just watching TV, more sleeping & rcovering from 2 days of cycling with more than 14 hours in the saddle.
"OK, we're going on the Vogeltour now" says Bill
"What!"
"The Vogeltour, cycle to the 3 Vogel pubs pay for beers in the first 2 and get a free beer in the third. Only 27k of riding & not too many hills"
And all this after going to bed at 2am after the most dire of England games.
So off we all went, children and friends in tow. The beer and ride were great. All very relaxing and returning to more wine, cheese, Calvodos and finally blogging at 3.30am!!!!!!
Oh no. I feel another hangover coming on.......
"OK, we're going on the Vogeltour now" says Bill
"What!"
"The Vogeltour, cycle to the 3 Vogel pubs pay for beers in the first 2 and get a free beer in the third. Only 27k of riding & not too many hills"
And all this after going to bed at 2am after the most dire of England games.
So off we all went, children and friends in tow. The beer and ride were great. All very relaxing and returning to more wine, cheese, Calvodos and finally blogging at 3.30am!!!!!!
Oh no. I feel another hangover coming on.......
Friday 18 June 2010
Day 12 - Kaiserslautern to Karlsruhe
Oh what a difference a day makes!
Warm, sunny, blue skies and my tail wind back again. Bill had caught the train from Karlsruhe and I met him at Kaiserslautern at 9am. We had a relaxed coffee at the station and headed off through some lovely forests. There were good climbs and better descents before we ended up in St Martin for a lunch of saumagen and weinschole (half a litre of white wine spritzer).
"Just having downed our wine"
Out of the woods we followed the Suddeutscheweinstrße (which I think stands for the South Germany Wine route). This was rolling countryside passing through gorgeous villages resulting in great cycling. So far it was the hottest day of my trip and the first time I cycled with just one cycling top on. Normally I have a coolmax top on under my cycling jersey.
The final part of the route was flat acros s the Rhein Valley and refreshed by a weiss beer after crossing the Rhein we arrived in Kalsruhe in time for curry and beers to watch a great England performance.
"On ferry crossing the Rhein"
Oh well at least England are undefeated unlike Germany , France and Spain.
Todays stats
Distance 127.45
Climb 1197m
Riding time 6:04:41
Average Speed 20.9
Total riding time 9:15.00
Warm, sunny, blue skies and my tail wind back again. Bill had caught the train from Karlsruhe and I met him at Kaiserslautern at 9am. We had a relaxed coffee at the station and headed off through some lovely forests. There were good climbs and better descents before we ended up in St Martin for a lunch of saumagen and weinschole (half a litre of white wine spritzer).
"Just having downed our wine"
Out of the woods we followed the Suddeutscheweinstrße (which I think stands for the South Germany Wine route). This was rolling countryside passing through gorgeous villages resulting in great cycling. So far it was the hottest day of my trip and the first time I cycled with just one cycling top on. Normally I have a coolmax top on under my cycling jersey.
The final part of the route was flat acros s the Rhein Valley and refreshed by a weiss beer after crossing the Rhein we arrived in Kalsruhe in time for curry and beers to watch a great England performance.
"On ferry crossing the Rhein"
Oh well at least England are undefeated unlike Germany , France and Spain.
Todays stats
Distance 127.45
Climb 1197m
Riding time 6:04:41
Average Speed 20.9
Total riding time 9:15.00
Thursday 17 June 2010
Day 11 - Luxembourg to Kaiserslautern
19th June 20.50
Now in the warm and comfort of Bill & Ali's house, I thought I would up date this blog.
After a night of very little sleep in the Youth Hostel (I forgot how noisy these places were with my dorm reminding me of Picadily Circus) I got up early and was on the bike at 8.45. It was raining but with a long day ahead I had to get going. After 10k I was soaking and after 20k I was starting to get very cold. The main problem being that my waterproof wasn't. In a bid to cut down on weight I left my heavy waterproof at home and took a lightweight one with me - big mistake, now rectified as my heavy waterproof has now being sent out here. The wet day across Belgium was OK because the temp never dropped below 17C but on this morn it was a miserable 11C and also the wind was against me adding to the chill factor. I stopped in a barn ate all my biscuits not sure what to do and decided to cycle as hard as I could to get warmer and if necessary stop in bike shop and buy some more clothes.
For the next 30k I put my head down followed the white line on the side of the road and cycled as hard as I could. The rain did ease a bit and at least I didn't get any colder. I stopped for an early lunch in Mettlach. The first thing the lady running the retaurant said was to offer me a towel (what great service - she got a good tip). After eating soup, bread, toasted sandwich and a side salad. I started to get cold again. Time to get going again. I bought more biscuits and coke for the ride and bought a large flapjack which I ate straight away.
One thing that I have learnt from cycling is that if you are cold and hungry you will soon get very tired, and when you are cold you must eat even more food as your body uses up lots of energy trying to stay warm. (If you get any 2 of the following: cold , hungry, tired: the third will come soon).
The good news was that it had stopped raining, I cycled on staying to the main roads as these are quicker, but there was loads of traffic, but to go on side roads would take too long. Slowly my body dried out and the temp rose to 13 or 14C. My feet were soaking and cold, so I changed socks every 20k or so.
One other problem I had is maps. I highlight the route on to maps, either photocopy them or cut them up into A4 sized paper, and fold this paper up and put it in my back left pocket of my cycling top. So as I ride along I can take out the paper and see where I am going. I don't bring spare maps and rely on being very careful, also if I did lose a map I can easily buy another. I don't like bar bags as they rattle and it's hard to read the maps through the plastic. My method works well apart from in the rain when the map is unreadable, therefore it has to be left in the pannier. This means that you have to stop on a regular basis to check the map which is a right pain and adds to the journey time, but I still find it the best overall option.
I ploughed on into the wind via Thealy, Oberthal, Sankt Wendel & stopped at Schonenberg-Kubelberg at about 6pm. Here I had the best salad and Penne Ariabatta ever. (As my dad says - hunger is the best sauce). From here on it was flat and feeling refreshed I biked the last 30k to Kaiserslautern feeling normal, happy to have made it.
Todays Stats
Distance 165.75k
Climb 1719m
Riding time 8:08.00
Average Speed 20.9kph
Total time 12:15:00
17th June 23.55
I have 2 mins to write this before being kicked out ot the internet cafe - will update later
It was wet, cold, into the wind, miserable,cold, busy roads, cold,
165k of being cold. 12 hours of being cold
I am sure I have had worse days on a bike - just cant think of any at the moment
(apart from the Goacher-Wiseman trek across Route 57 of the Sustrans rides in South Wales)
Looking forward to seeing Bill Ali & kids tomorrow
Now in the warm and comfort of Bill & Ali's house, I thought I would up date this blog.
After a night of very little sleep in the Youth Hostel (I forgot how noisy these places were with my dorm reminding me of Picadily Circus) I got up early and was on the bike at 8.45. It was raining but with a long day ahead I had to get going. After 10k I was soaking and after 20k I was starting to get very cold. The main problem being that my waterproof wasn't. In a bid to cut down on weight I left my heavy waterproof at home and took a lightweight one with me - big mistake, now rectified as my heavy waterproof has now being sent out here. The wet day across Belgium was OK because the temp never dropped below 17C but on this morn it was a miserable 11C and also the wind was against me adding to the chill factor. I stopped in a barn ate all my biscuits not sure what to do and decided to cycle as hard as I could to get warmer and if necessary stop in bike shop and buy some more clothes.
For the next 30k I put my head down followed the white line on the side of the road and cycled as hard as I could. The rain did ease a bit and at least I didn't get any colder. I stopped for an early lunch in Mettlach. The first thing the lady running the retaurant said was to offer me a towel (what great service - she got a good tip). After eating soup, bread, toasted sandwich and a side salad. I started to get cold again. Time to get going again. I bought more biscuits and coke for the ride and bought a large flapjack which I ate straight away.
One thing that I have learnt from cycling is that if you are cold and hungry you will soon get very tired, and when you are cold you must eat even more food as your body uses up lots of energy trying to stay warm. (If you get any 2 of the following: cold , hungry, tired: the third will come soon).
The good news was that it had stopped raining, I cycled on staying to the main roads as these are quicker, but there was loads of traffic, but to go on side roads would take too long. Slowly my body dried out and the temp rose to 13 or 14C. My feet were soaking and cold, so I changed socks every 20k or so.
One other problem I had is maps. I highlight the route on to maps, either photocopy them or cut them up into A4 sized paper, and fold this paper up and put it in my back left pocket of my cycling top. So as I ride along I can take out the paper and see where I am going. I don't bring spare maps and rely on being very careful, also if I did lose a map I can easily buy another. I don't like bar bags as they rattle and it's hard to read the maps through the plastic. My method works well apart from in the rain when the map is unreadable, therefore it has to be left in the pannier. This means that you have to stop on a regular basis to check the map which is a right pain and adds to the journey time, but I still find it the best overall option.
I ploughed on into the wind via Thealy, Oberthal, Sankt Wendel & stopped at Schonenberg-Kubelberg at about 6pm. Here I had the best salad and Penne Ariabatta ever. (As my dad says - hunger is the best sauce). From here on it was flat and feeling refreshed I biked the last 30k to Kaiserslautern feeling normal, happy to have made it.
Todays Stats
Distance 165.75k
Climb 1719m
Riding time 8:08.00
Average Speed 20.9kph
Total time 12:15:00
17th June 23.55
I have 2 mins to write this before being kicked out ot the internet cafe - will update later
It was wet, cold, into the wind, miserable,cold, busy roads, cold,
165k of being cold. 12 hours of being cold
I am sure I have had worse days on a bike - just cant think of any at the moment
(apart from the Goacher-Wiseman trek across Route 57 of the Sustrans rides in South Wales)
Looking forward to seeing Bill Ali & kids tomorrow
Wednesday 16 June 2010
Day 10 - Vianden to Luxembourg
This was scheduled to be my last short day (with the exception of Florence to Siena) of the trip. It started with another Mega breakfast (just how many bowls of fruit salad can you have before you start feeling guilty - 3 in my case). I rolled out down the Pave at about 11am on a very sunny and windy morning. The first part of the ride followed the Germany-Luxembourg border, alongside the rivers Our and Sure, heading towards Echternach. I was happily pedaling along when a mountain biker overtook me near the top of a hill, he quickly gained about 200m on me, but after a while I noticed he had not gained any more. Right I thought, challenge on. I dug in hard and chased hiim down and caught him quite easily. He had obviously forgotton all about me thinking his spurt to overtake me would be enough to get rid of me for good. He then took up the challenge of dropping me and kept accelerating on little hills and bends etc. He even tried the double-bore snot gun trick, but I was not going to let go, and sat on his wheel for abot 8k until we reached Echternach We said our goodbyes and parted ways. Like all cyclists I do enjoy the challenge of overtaking or dropping cyclists even with 2 full pannier bags.
After Echternach I headed west through the Mullerthal woods which were beautiful (a bit like Cheddar Gorge, but perfect road surface and few cars). It was then some back roads and on to Luxembourg City.
Following the advice of The Lonely Planet, and because Luxembourg is very expensive, I decided to stay in the Auberge de Jeunesse (Youth Hostel). Only Dorms were available so I felt like Grandad again. There are 2 things I forgot about Youth Hostels: the first is that there is no soap in the shower: the second being that you dont get a towel. I showered as best as I could and wandered into town still a bit smelly. Luxembourg is a lovely place, The old town was built on a plateau surrounded by gorges. It is now connected with adjacent plateaus with bridges that give wonderful views. (Or as one of my room mates said "Yes, Luxembourg is lovely if you are old because everything is neat and clean" OLD was he calling me OLD!!!
Todays Stats
Distance 78.35k
Riding Time 3:20;31
Average speed 23.4kph
Climb 877m
Total Time 5:07:58
After Echternach I headed west through the Mullerthal woods which were beautiful (a bit like Cheddar Gorge, but perfect road surface and few cars). It was then some back roads and on to Luxembourg City.
Following the advice of The Lonely Planet, and because Luxembourg is very expensive, I decided to stay in the Auberge de Jeunesse (Youth Hostel). Only Dorms were available so I felt like Grandad again. There are 2 things I forgot about Youth Hostels: the first is that there is no soap in the shower: the second being that you dont get a towel. I showered as best as I could and wandered into town still a bit smelly. Luxembourg is a lovely place, The old town was built on a plateau surrounded by gorges. It is now connected with adjacent plateaus with bridges that give wonderful views. (Or as one of my room mates said "Yes, Luxembourg is lovely if you are old because everything is neat and clean" OLD was he calling me OLD!!!
Todays Stats
Distance 78.35k
Riding Time 3:20;31
Average speed 23.4kph
Climb 877m
Total Time 5:07:58
Robert Green is Pants
Well if you dont believe me have a look on Utube at an incident when playing for Norwich against the mighty Nottingham Forest. What happend was: A cross came in and Green beat David Johnson (Forest Striker) to the ball. He actually caught the ball and in his jubilatiion he then rolled it out to kick it downfield. However he forgot Johnson was behind him and Johnson simply ran to the ball rounded Green and popped it into the net. Quite unbelievable - check it out. What was more strange was that I was relating this story to the Boro boys in the pub just before the famous spillage. Thinking that I now had some divine powers it was suggested that I started relating stories about Heskey scoring a wonder goal (or any goal for that matter). But alas I could not think of any.....
And regarding weight of pants - I did not weigh them before I came but I reckon they must have doubled in weight so far...
And regarding weight of pants - I did not weigh them before I came but I reckon they must have doubled in weight so far...
Tuesday 15 June 2010
Day 9 - Stavelot to Vianden
I was thinking at breakfast this morning that I am amazed by how much I can eat. For breakfast I had 6 slices of bread, ham, loads of cheese a boiled egg, orange juice and a whole jug of coffee, and this is about average. And what is more amazing after cycling for about an hour I will be starving again. I`m not sure if this is all down to cycling everyday or whether it`s becauase I`m not using energy drinks. I`m only drinking water from my bottles as I cant wash them, and also dont want to drink energy drinks all day every day. However sugary drinks is what the body wants so I normally have a bottle of coke in my pannier, and as a result (certainly in the flat Flanders days) I would finish the ride with at least one bottle of water completly un touched. Not sure what the solution is.
Still back to the ride. The start of which was very hilly, several climbs of 14 & 16% this was due to following the route of `La Doyenne`. But after about 10k I dropped into a river valley at Vialsalm, and from then on the ride was undulating but quite easy. Once I crossed into Luxembourg the roads got even better and the last 20k to Vianden along side the river Our was beautiful. It was a coolish day, but sunny with another strong tailwind.
Vianden is a touristy town mainly due to the impressive Chateau perched on top of a hill. It is quite classy and not all that expensive. My hotel costs 50Euros a night which includes a buffet breakfast (that will teach them) which is about average for the trip. Gent & Leuven were the most expensive and the cheapest were the most interesting - the Talbot House (museum in Poperinge) and my Botel in Maastrict.
Back to food - For lunch I often just snack on bannans, biscuits and my Coke. The standard evening meal for me is a salad followed by a pasta or pizza (about 15Euros), and a couple of beers (normally a bit cheaper than UK prices). I think the only day I have more than a couple of pints of beer was the Robert Bloody Green day and in that case it was medicinal.
Today Stats
Distance 86.25k
Climb 1246m (hilly)
Riding Time 3.50.25
Average speed 22.4kph
Total Time 4.45.06
Still back to the ride. The start of which was very hilly, several climbs of 14 & 16% this was due to following the route of `La Doyenne`. But after about 10k I dropped into a river valley at Vialsalm, and from then on the ride was undulating but quite easy. Once I crossed into Luxembourg the roads got even better and the last 20k to Vianden along side the river Our was beautiful. It was a coolish day, but sunny with another strong tailwind.
Vianden is a touristy town mainly due to the impressive Chateau perched on top of a hill. It is quite classy and not all that expensive. My hotel costs 50Euros a night which includes a buffet breakfast (that will teach them) which is about average for the trip. Gent & Leuven were the most expensive and the cheapest were the most interesting - the Talbot House (museum in Poperinge) and my Botel in Maastrict.
Back to food - For lunch I often just snack on bannans, biscuits and my Coke. The standard evening meal for me is a salad followed by a pasta or pizza (about 15Euros), and a couple of beers (normally a bit cheaper than UK prices). I think the only day I have more than a couple of pints of beer was the Robert Bloody Green day and in that case it was medicinal.
Today Stats
Distance 86.25k
Climb 1246m (hilly)
Riding Time 3.50.25
Average speed 22.4kph
Total Time 4.45.06
Monday 14 June 2010
Day 8 - Maastricht to Stavelot
For once I got an early start, I was away by 9.30 on a lovely sunny morning. said goodbye to my boat - I got quite attached to it in the last 2days - and headed east to Valkenbourg. it didn't take long before I got lost and ended up cycling an extra 10k to get there. My main reason to cycle to Valkenbourg was to cycle up the Cauberg which is the final climb on the Amstel Gold cycle race - one of the spring classic one day races. Well it took me 3mins 50 secs to climb it. The total ascent was a mere 60m with a max gradient of 12% - hardly Alpe d'Huez. Next i headed towards Vaals via Margratton & Slenaken this road was very undulating similar to roads over the South Downs. At Vaals I headed to Drielandenpunt via the highest point in Holland (321m). This point is also the border between Germany, Holland and Belgium. You can stand in all 3 countries at one time. Tim wants to know how you can do this with only 2 legs. Well......
After this was back into Belgium, I was in south Belgium or Wallonia. This is the French speaking side. There are no cycle paths (helmet back on) and in every way seemed just like France, a completly different country to Flanders ( and after Sundays elections they may be different countries soon, as Flanders has voted in favour of independence. The only 2 issues are Brussels - which is bilingual - and the monachy). Anyhow it also marked a change of direction for me after 6 and a bit days heading East, I was now heading South, and the wind was still following me :-)
I was heading for Spa, the roads were lovely but hilly, and I got to Spa at mid afternoon. To me Spa reminded me of a British Sea-Side resort that has seen better days. I found out where the 3 open natural springs were (the 4th spring in the town centre was shut) and biked to them sampling the water, which was awful, tasting of iron and smelling of Sulphur, still if you believe the info I am now cured of all respiritory problems and cured from my sterilty.
Finally on to Stavelot via the climbs of the Leige-Bastogne-Leige (La Doyonne - I think this means that it is the most important one day classic ride). The climb of of Spa rises to 545m (and is also the last cat 3 climb on stage 2 of this yers TDF). After that climb a great desent and one last drag climb and I got there. Probably my hardest days ride so far, but I felt good after my day off.
Todays Stats
Distance 135.02k
Climb 1837m (pretty hilly)
Riding Time 6.19.54
Average Speed 21.3kph
Total Time 8.51.56
After this was back into Belgium, I was in south Belgium or Wallonia. This is the French speaking side. There are no cycle paths (helmet back on) and in every way seemed just like France, a completly different country to Flanders ( and after Sundays elections they may be different countries soon, as Flanders has voted in favour of independence. The only 2 issues are Brussels - which is bilingual - and the monachy). Anyhow it also marked a change of direction for me after 6 and a bit days heading East, I was now heading South, and the wind was still following me :-)
I was heading for Spa, the roads were lovely but hilly, and I got to Spa at mid afternoon. To me Spa reminded me of a British Sea-Side resort that has seen better days. I found out where the 3 open natural springs were (the 4th spring in the town centre was shut) and biked to them sampling the water, which was awful, tasting of iron and smelling of Sulphur, still if you believe the info I am now cured of all respiritory problems and cured from my sterilty.
Finally on to Stavelot via the climbs of the Leige-Bastogne-Leige (La Doyonne - I think this means that it is the most important one day classic ride). The climb of of Spa rises to 545m (and is also the last cat 3 climb on stage 2 of this yers TDF). After that climb a great desent and one last drag climb and I got there. Probably my hardest days ride so far, but I felt good after my day off.
Todays Stats
Distance 135.02k
Climb 1837m (pretty hilly)
Riding Time 6.19.54
Average Speed 21.3kph
Total Time 8.51.56
Sunday 13 June 2010
Day 7 - Rest Day Maastricht
I woke this morn at 6am to the sound of a smoke alarm, judging by the argument outside it seems like the guys in the next room had been smoking - I then relived that Robert Green moment and can't decide whether it was worse than Scott Carsons or Paul Robinsons against Croatia. - not a great start to the day. Still I went back to sleep till 9am and have spent a lazy day wandering around Maastrict. In the morn I watched the "Maastricht Mootsie" which was a 15k running race around town.
In the aft I visited the underground caves (or to be technically correct mines as they are manmade). These are a labyrinth of tunnels where Marlstone has been quarryed for a few hunderd years. And then went back to my Botel for another couple of hours sleep. I did not sleep well the first few nights but now I'm sleeping like a log.
It was all ok but am looking forward to getting back on my bike tomorrow.
I'm going to climb my first "Alp" tomorrow - Thats what they call the hills in South Holland - the Dutch Alps. The highest point is 321m high which is at the Belgian/German/Dutch Border.
Stats so far
Total Distance 685k
Total Climb 4200m
Total Riding Time 29:40
Average speed - Don't know have not got calculator
In the aft I visited the underground caves (or to be technically correct mines as they are manmade). These are a labyrinth of tunnels where Marlstone has been quarryed for a few hunderd years. And then went back to my Botel for another couple of hours sleep. I did not sleep well the first few nights but now I'm sleeping like a log.
It was all ok but am looking forward to getting back on my bike tomorrow.
I'm going to climb my first "Alp" tomorrow - Thats what they call the hills in South Holland - the Dutch Alps. The highest point is 321m high which is at the Belgian/German/Dutch Border.
Stats so far
Total Distance 685k
Total Climb 4200m
Total Riding Time 29:40
Average speed - Don't know have not got calculator
Saturday 12 June 2010
Day 6 - Leuven to Maastricht
Today was my easist day's cycle ride not just because it was the shortest but also because I decided to follow the main road via Tienen, St Truiden & Tongeren to Maastrict. Another late-ish start but most importantly another westerly and dry day, but at about 20C not as warm as yesterday. So far I'm winning 5 -1 on wind direction.
I'm getting well into the routine of touring now. My left pannier has at the bottom my evening shoes and 3 plastic bags of clothes, one for wet stuff that has not dried overnight, another for ''clean'' cycling clothes and the other bag for "clean" evening clothes. The term ''clean'' is rather a loose term and often means pre-worn as in 2nd hand goods being pre-owned.
In my right pannier goes everything else, washbag, recharger bag, all bike stuff, bag with the vitals (i.e. passport, camera, wallet, sun-glasses), snacks for the day, arm-warmers & raincoat and finally my helmet. Yes, since Gent this is now in my pannier, mainly because nearly all cycling is on cyclepaths and the Belgian drivers appear paranoid about hitting cyclists. When sideroads join mainroads cars have to give way, if they are on the path waiting to join the main road they reverse out of the way, if turning from a main road onto a side road they never cut you up or go near you. Cyclists nearly always have priority on roundabouts - I assume that - like in Holland - if a car hits a cyclist they are assumed to be guilty unless they can prove otherwise. I guess if they hit you on a cyclepath they have no hope - whatever it is cycling seems very safe here.
I had a long lunch in St Truiden where I wrote the post for Day 5, and thought I'd treat myself in Tongeren to a last beer in Flanders. The beer menu covers 2 pages about 40 beers is normal, not really having a clue and trying to avoid the common beers I tend to buy on the sound of the name. For this reason I avoided 'Bolleke Scotch' as it reminded me how I felt after our recent barbeque instead I opted for a Trappist Donker.
Maastricht is a beautful city - very classy but also very expensive. Following the advice in my Lonely Planet book I am staying for 2 nights in a ''Botel'' - which is a hotel on a boat. A hotel is a bit of an exageration. It is 2 old boats joined together with tiny rooms (my room is about 7 foot square), but very friendly and smack bang in the centre of town.
In the eve I found an Irish bar called John Mullens. I met a few kindred spirits from Tyneside and Colchester and watched the game. It was a good atmosphere (even though we were outnumbered by Americans) only to be spoilt by ROBERT GREEN. AHHHHHH!!!!!
Todays Stats
Distance 78.91k
Climb 444m (slightly more hilly than last 2 days)
Riding Time 3:17:24
Average speed 23.9kph
Total riding time 6:49
I'm getting well into the routine of touring now. My left pannier has at the bottom my evening shoes and 3 plastic bags of clothes, one for wet stuff that has not dried overnight, another for ''clean'' cycling clothes and the other bag for "clean" evening clothes. The term ''clean'' is rather a loose term and often means pre-worn as in 2nd hand goods being pre-owned.
In my right pannier goes everything else, washbag, recharger bag, all bike stuff, bag with the vitals (i.e. passport, camera, wallet, sun-glasses), snacks for the day, arm-warmers & raincoat and finally my helmet. Yes, since Gent this is now in my pannier, mainly because nearly all cycling is on cyclepaths and the Belgian drivers appear paranoid about hitting cyclists. When sideroads join mainroads cars have to give way, if they are on the path waiting to join the main road they reverse out of the way, if turning from a main road onto a side road they never cut you up or go near you. Cyclists nearly always have priority on roundabouts - I assume that - like in Holland - if a car hits a cyclist they are assumed to be guilty unless they can prove otherwise. I guess if they hit you on a cyclepath they have no hope - whatever it is cycling seems very safe here.
I had a long lunch in St Truiden where I wrote the post for Day 5, and thought I'd treat myself in Tongeren to a last beer in Flanders. The beer menu covers 2 pages about 40 beers is normal, not really having a clue and trying to avoid the common beers I tend to buy on the sound of the name. For this reason I avoided 'Bolleke Scotch' as it reminded me how I felt after our recent barbeque instead I opted for a Trappist Donker.
Maastricht is a beautful city - very classy but also very expensive. Following the advice in my Lonely Planet book I am staying for 2 nights in a ''Botel'' - which is a hotel on a boat. A hotel is a bit of an exageration. It is 2 old boats joined together with tiny rooms (my room is about 7 foot square), but very friendly and smack bang in the centre of town.
In the eve I found an Irish bar called John Mullens. I met a few kindred spirits from Tyneside and Colchester and watched the game. It was a good atmosphere (even though we were outnumbered by Americans) only to be spoilt by ROBERT GREEN. AHHHHHH!!!!!
Todays Stats
Distance 78.91k
Climb 444m (slightly more hilly than last 2 days)
Riding Time 3:17:24
Average speed 23.9kph
Total riding time 6:49
Friday 11 June 2010
Day 5 - Gent to Leuvan
For me its half way through day 6 but I couldnt find an internet cafe yesterday - just like I cant find the apostrophe on this keyboard. Talking of which these keyboards are not QWERTY keyboards they are AZERTY keyboards; and its not just the AZQ&W that have been swapped to get the @ symbol you have to hit Ctrl Alt and 2 - it took me ages to work that out.
Before my ride yesterday I thought I would visit Gents main 2 tourist attractions. The first is '(found it) The adoration of the mystic lamb' being from Wales this sounded interesting. It is, however, a famous Medieval oil painting in the cathedral, unfortunately it was being restored but you could pay 5 Euros to see a replica - I don' think so. The other was to climb the 253 steps of the Belfry which is on the Cloth Hall. This was ticked off the list. Gent is a pretty city but is like a construction site at the moment due to installation of Tram Lines and more and more of the dreaded 'Pavé'. It seems like all the towns in Flanders are covered with the stuff. It may look pretty but a nightmare to cycle on. Anyhow I wandered back to the Hotel passed those ladies - don't they ever get to go to bed - packed me stuff and headed off at about 11am
The weather was great 22C bright with a few clouds and a good old westerly - absolutly perfect. For the first 15k I sailed along the paths were good and I was going about 30k for alot of it. However for the rest of the day until the last 15k the paths were pretty awful. There are 3 types of path; tamac when besides the road is normally good; then there is concrete slabs, about 12 foot long with an inch gap to the next one and always at a different height - just like a train ride on a bad track; and the last type of main path is the red block paving which can be ok but today was awful, uneven, bits missing etc I spent most of the time just looking at the groung just in front of me. Still it wasn't too long a ride and I arrived in Leuven at 6pm.
For lunch today I stopped in a retaurant had a lovely pasta meal and thought I would treat myself to a pancake, but the waitress said
'we dont serve pancakes until 2pm' the time was 1:30. I looked at her in amazement what kind of place would serve you dinner and then tell you to wait another half an hour for desert.
'you can have ice cream'
'i dont want icecream i want a pancake with jam'
At 1:40 she said 'you can have your pancake now'
And mighty fine it was too! Customer service or what!
Leuven is absolutey lovely - like all Flanders towns it has a magnicent Cloth Hall - the Cloth industry was what made Flanders rich hunderds of years ago. But what is more beauutiful than the city & the beer is the girlies. Leuven has 25000 students and i'm sure all the pretty girls were out last night - shame they were all half my age.
Thanks for all your comments please keep them coming, I can view them on my phone but I cant write the blog on it as memory on my phone is not big enough - or something like that
Today's stats
Distance 94.39k
Climb 321m
Riding time 4:15:36
Average speed 22.1kph
Total time 6:31
Before my ride yesterday I thought I would visit Gents main 2 tourist attractions. The first is '(found it) The adoration of the mystic lamb' being from Wales this sounded interesting. It is, however, a famous Medieval oil painting in the cathedral, unfortunately it was being restored but you could pay 5 Euros to see a replica - I don' think so. The other was to climb the 253 steps of the Belfry which is on the Cloth Hall. This was ticked off the list. Gent is a pretty city but is like a construction site at the moment due to installation of Tram Lines and more and more of the dreaded 'Pavé'. It seems like all the towns in Flanders are covered with the stuff. It may look pretty but a nightmare to cycle on. Anyhow I wandered back to the Hotel passed those ladies - don't they ever get to go to bed - packed me stuff and headed off at about 11am
The weather was great 22C bright with a few clouds and a good old westerly - absolutly perfect. For the first 15k I sailed along the paths were good and I was going about 30k for alot of it. However for the rest of the day until the last 15k the paths were pretty awful. There are 3 types of path; tamac when besides the road is normally good; then there is concrete slabs, about 12 foot long with an inch gap to the next one and always at a different height - just like a train ride on a bad track; and the last type of main path is the red block paving which can be ok but today was awful, uneven, bits missing etc I spent most of the time just looking at the groung just in front of me. Still it wasn't too long a ride and I arrived in Leuven at 6pm.
For lunch today I stopped in a retaurant had a lovely pasta meal and thought I would treat myself to a pancake, but the waitress said
'we dont serve pancakes until 2pm' the time was 1:30. I looked at her in amazement what kind of place would serve you dinner and then tell you to wait another half an hour for desert.
'you can have ice cream'
'i dont want icecream i want a pancake with jam'
At 1:40 she said 'you can have your pancake now'
And mighty fine it was too! Customer service or what!
Leuven is absolutey lovely - like all Flanders towns it has a magnicent Cloth Hall - the Cloth industry was what made Flanders rich hunderds of years ago. But what is more beauutiful than the city & the beer is the girlies. Leuven has 25000 students and i'm sure all the pretty girls were out last night - shame they were all half my age.
Thanks for all your comments please keep them coming, I can view them on my phone but I cant write the blog on it as memory on my phone is not big enough - or something like that
Today's stats
Distance 94.39k
Climb 321m
Riding time 4:15:36
Average speed 22.1kph
Total time 6:31
Thursday 10 June 2010
Day 4 - Poperinge to Gent
Currently I am in the Tyne Cot cemetery museum, I am the only person here which is quite surprising as it is chucking down outside. Tyne Cot is the largest Commonwealth Cemetery in the world with about 12000 soldiers buried here. I will look outside and pay my respects once I finish this.
The day started a muggy cloudy 23C, but is now raining and 17C. I had a leisurely breakfast chatting to Graham, his father and his father in law, and being thourghly spoilt by Jenny, the warden, who insisted on making me a pot of tea and giving me her jam, cheese etc.
After a quick tour of the The Talbot House Museum I headed to Ypres (Ieper), on the way I visited a few British Cemeteries including the Essex Farm Cemetery where John McCrae wrote "In Flanders Fields". Ypres is a lovely small city which was flattened in the War but has now been completely restored to how it was before. It is where tens of thousands headed to the Western Front, passing through the Menin Gate which now bears the names of 55000 Commonwealth Soldiers who were lost in the trenches and have no graves. From there I headed here and I plan to end up in Gent depending on the weather.
1.30am
I made it to Gent, another 70k of cycling through the rain and into a wind.
In some ways cycling in Belgium is similar to Holland. There are loads of cycle paths, and you must use them when they are there. As I found out if you don´t the car drivers are quick to blow their horn at you, however, in towns {where there are no cycle paths the cars never cut you up}. Loads of people cycle mostly very bably on rickity bikes and no one wears a helmet apart from the roadies.
And in some ways Belgium reminds me of France - in that every shop seems to be shut and the odd cafe or bar that is open will not serve food. I found this today and survived the day on a packet of fig rolls, a coke, a fanta, a waffle, 2 bars of choclate and a coffee - hardly the best diet in the world!
It was 8.30pm when I arrived in Gent and by the time I found a hotel and washed everything {including those underpants} it was 10pm before I wandered into town for a pizza and a couple of beers in Cafe den Turk which is the oldest pub in Gent, and a good one as well. I have just walked back to my hotel in the early hours of the morn and noticed a few pretty young ladies relaxing on sofas in shop windows waving at me. Blimey - I thought they could get in all kinds of trouble dressed like that!!!
I hope to view the real sights of Gent tomorrow before I head to Leuven - the beer capital of Belgium, now there´s a claim.
Today´s stats
Distance 112.75k
Climb 256m i.e. pan flat
Riding time 5:22:37
Average speed 20.90kph
Total time 10:15
The day started a muggy cloudy 23C, but is now raining and 17C. I had a leisurely breakfast chatting to Graham, his father and his father in law, and being thourghly spoilt by Jenny, the warden, who insisted on making me a pot of tea and giving me her jam, cheese etc.
After a quick tour of the The Talbot House Museum I headed to Ypres (Ieper), on the way I visited a few British Cemeteries including the Essex Farm Cemetery where John McCrae wrote "In Flanders Fields". Ypres is a lovely small city which was flattened in the War but has now been completely restored to how it was before. It is where tens of thousands headed to the Western Front, passing through the Menin Gate which now bears the names of 55000 Commonwealth Soldiers who were lost in the trenches and have no graves. From there I headed here and I plan to end up in Gent depending on the weather.
1.30am
I made it to Gent, another 70k of cycling through the rain and into a wind.
In some ways cycling in Belgium is similar to Holland. There are loads of cycle paths, and you must use them when they are there. As I found out if you don´t the car drivers are quick to blow their horn at you, however, in towns {where there are no cycle paths the cars never cut you up}. Loads of people cycle mostly very bably on rickity bikes and no one wears a helmet apart from the roadies.
And in some ways Belgium reminds me of France - in that every shop seems to be shut and the odd cafe or bar that is open will not serve food. I found this today and survived the day on a packet of fig rolls, a coke, a fanta, a waffle, 2 bars of choclate and a coffee - hardly the best diet in the world!
It was 8.30pm when I arrived in Gent and by the time I found a hotel and washed everything {including those underpants} it was 10pm before I wandered into town for a pizza and a couple of beers in Cafe den Turk which is the oldest pub in Gent, and a good one as well. I have just walked back to my hotel in the early hours of the morn and noticed a few pretty young ladies relaxing on sofas in shop windows waving at me. Blimey - I thought they could get in all kinds of trouble dressed like that!!!
I hope to view the real sights of Gent tomorrow before I head to Leuven - the beer capital of Belgium, now there´s a claim.
Today´s stats
Distance 112.75k
Climb 256m i.e. pan flat
Riding time 5:22:37
Average speed 20.90kph
Total time 10:15
Wednesday 9 June 2010
Day 3 - Boulogne to Poperinge
I woke up again to the sound of rain, fell back to sleep - overslept - by which time it had stopped raining. I did not leave the hotel until 10:30 but with the help of the landlady found a good bike shop in the town centre where I finally bought 5 spare spokes at a princely sum of 40 cents each.
I headed up the coast to Wimereux - said goodbye to the sea for 3 weeks - and headed inland approx due east. I followed a series of minor roads to Colembert, Watten and Wormout before reaching the Belgium border just north of Watou. There was only one small sign to signify the border but you could tell it was Belgium as just across the border there was a bar a bookmakers and a petrol station.
The roads today were great, they got flatter as the day wore on, had an excellent surface and very quiet. Again no rain and agentle southerly breeze.
I decided to stop in Poperinge as I am staying in Talbot House which is an amazing place. Poperinge was 10k behind the front line and was a staging post for the British army. It was also the place where deserters got executed and the shooting post is still there. Talbot House was a place where officers, regardless of rank could relax and enjoy themselves, It has been fully restored and the rooms are let out. The rooms are basic and obviously no ensuite so I have kept my washing down - looks like i will have to squeeze another day of of those underpants!
Todays Stats
Distance 101.66k
Climb 651m
Riding time 4:22:12
Average speed 23.2kph
Toal time 6:24:10
I headed up the coast to Wimereux - said goodbye to the sea for 3 weeks - and headed inland approx due east. I followed a series of minor roads to Colembert, Watten and Wormout before reaching the Belgium border just north of Watou. There was only one small sign to signify the border but you could tell it was Belgium as just across the border there was a bar a bookmakers and a petrol station.
The roads today were great, they got flatter as the day wore on, had an excellent surface and very quiet. Again no rain and agentle southerly breeze.
I decided to stop in Poperinge as I am staying in Talbot House which is an amazing place. Poperinge was 10k behind the front line and was a staging post for the British army. It was also the place where deserters got executed and the shooting post is still there. Talbot House was a place where officers, regardless of rank could relax and enjoy themselves, It has been fully restored and the rooms are let out. The rooms are basic and obviously no ensuite so I have kept my washing down - looks like i will have to squeeze another day of of those underpants!
Todays Stats
Distance 101.66k
Climb 651m
Riding time 4:22:12
Average speed 23.2kph
Toal time 6:24:10
Tuesday 8 June 2010
Day 2 - East Hoathly to Boulogne
Stuart persuaded me to take his chain link remover, rear cassette remover & elephant tape and also to buy some spare spokes asap (more weight!). Frances persuaded me to take the rest of her fruit cake - now that is weight I can justify!
The first part of the ride to Heathfield and Battle was quite hilly with some sharp but shortish climbs of 14 per cent. But after Battle the riding got easier and then dropped down to sea level at Rye. After Rye I biked through the Walland and Romney Marsh. Here the roads were pan flat the clouds had cleared and it was lovely blue skies and on the top of that I had a tail wind - PERFECT - my average speed crept up to25kph. This continued to Hythe where I decided to follow the Sustrans National Cycle Route No 2 to Folkstone and Dover. The route initially followed the sea wall to Folkstone which with blue skies was fabulous. I got a bit lost in Folkstone but stumbled across a trendy bike shop complete with a cafe (selling gluton free cakes) called The Hub. But it was so trendy it was shut on Tuesdays! There was a big climb out of town and the route changed to an off road track over the white cliffs of Dover. Very pretty but not really for road bikes, however I arrived in Dover at 3.45pm without any punctures. Plenty of time for my ferry.
I was the first on and off the ferry - Now that is the service I like. The ferry docked on time at 8pm and I am now in Boulogne having a beer and typing this. Or at least I was until they kicked me out of the bar, I'm now sat on a shop window sil typing this. Still at 6.80euros a beer I dont want to stay there too long.
Overall a very good day especially lucky with the weather.
Today's Stats
Distance 124.88k
Climb 937m
Riding Time 5.20.47
Average Speed 23.3kph
Total Time 9.53 including ferry.
Monday 7 June 2010
Day 1 - Andover to East Hoathly
All packed and ready to go. My paniers weighed 15lbs just 1lb overweight which is a lot better than me.
A bit of a late start to the day (no change there). Part of the reason for this was Paula's brother arriving to attend a family funeral, and by a stange coincidence I was cycling past the church when the funeral was on - 15k into my ride.
I finally got away at 10.20 and it was a long ride not helped by adding 6k extra due to wrong turning. Also 2 small roads in Sussex were closed for resurfacing (Hampshire County Council take note) causing more minor detours. Apart from that it was all good. The weather was favourable with the breeze mainly behind me and the rain just about holding off. I arrived at my friends Frances and Stuart's house in East Hoathly at 7pm and have been well fed and watered (beered).
I thought biking 100 miles in a day was a lot but Stu is now into Ultra marathons and is running a 104 mile race around the lake district in a few weeks, and in typical cocky Kiwi style was predicting to smash the course record. Click the link below to read his great words of wisdom!
http://ultrastu.blogspot.com/
The stats for the day are
Distance 170.7k
Climb 1593m
Riding time 7:00:41
Aver speed 24.3k
Total Time including stops 8:20:00
About 110k to Dover tomorrow, my ferry is at 5.15pm so should be no rush.
Cheers for now, Brendan
Sunday 6 June 2010
Bike & kit & blogging practice
As it is my intention to write a blog at least once a day i bought myself a new WIFI phone - a samsung genio slide. so here is my first attempt to blog with it.
The bike i am using is a Thorn Audax bike with Reynolds 853 tubing and ultegra chainset and brakes and mavic open pro wheels. It weighs (with rack and pump) 26lbs. I will use 2 ortleib rear panniers and intend to keep the weight of paniers and clothes down to 14lbs. The weigh in will be tonight.
I will take with me: -
2 cycling short sleeved tops
2 cycling shorts
1 helmet
3 pairs of cycling socks
3 coolmax/base layer t-shirt
1 cotton t-shirt
1 lightweight raincoat
1 leg warmers
1 arm warmers
1 cycling shoes (specialized taho spd shoes)
1 other shoes
1 trousers
1 fleece top
1 shorts
phone
camera
rechargers
sun glasses
wash/medical bag
maps (maps for 2nd part of trip will be sent to Karlsruhe)
Bike kit to include: -
inner tube
puncture repair kit & tyre levers
allen keys
spoke key
front light
back light
chain oil
small lock
Blimey - sounds a lot I'd better start weighing it.
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