Tuesday 6 July 2010

Day 29 - Viterbo to Roma

At 4.15pm after 29 days 3028k and 32000m of climbing I reached the Coluseum and got off my bike to be met by Paula who had been travelling for about 8 hours (but at least I saved the Airfare).

Off doing the touristy bits for the next couple of days but will update this blog and add photos etc etc when I return home.

Today was a really hard day starting with a hot and busy 500m climb out of Viterbo to the East of Lago di Vico over Monte (forgotten name), I followed increasing rough and pot holey roads to the East of Lago di Bracciano where I stopped for my nosebag at the Spar. The roads improved after this but got busier and busier and I was desperate just to finish, resulting in cycling as hard as I could. I did not have a map of Roma but just followed signs to the Centre,  on dual carriageways where I dont think I should be, but I didnt care I just wanted to finish. By now the signs to the Centre at stopped, so I guessed I was getting there, but before I went to the Coluseum I wanted to cycle to the Vatican City to clock up my 10th country. By now I was asking instructions from scooters at the traffic lights. One lady said "you are nearly there 1k down the hill, through the tunnel and turn left". No not another tunnel this time with the crazy Roman drivers. I shot down the hill cut in front of the bus and stayed in the middle of the bus lane and suddenly I was there.

After stopping for a photo in St Peter's square is was a shortish ride to the Coleseum, and that was it all done finished! I didn't know how I felt, apart from hot and needing a drink but as the evening wore on I felt happier and quite proud with what I have achieved. We had a lovely evening last night eating and drinking by the River Tiber until the early hours where we met a group of people trying to make Roma a more cycle friendly place (I only saw about 2 or 3 cyclists on my trip through Rome), he was amazed that I cycled here and gave me a T-shirt as a souvenier coinsidently with a Logo of a bike and the Coluseum on it!

Todays Stats
Distance 105.30k
Climb 1060m
Riding time 4:47:09
Average Speed 22.0kph
Total Time 6:30

Sunday 4 July 2010

Bottom boils, bladders, groins and feet

Well you dont have to read it if you dont want to. But the biggest issue, in my opinion, for long distance cycling is saddle sores.

Despite regular creaming with Sudocream I have succumbed to the enevitable saddle sores, but on only 2 days have they become uncomfortable, the first was the Lake Constance day and the second the other day from Lido di Venice to Arrenta, and my theory is because both days are flat you dont move around much in the saddle, you are sat in the same place all day which causes the problem. Extra doses of sudocream and hilly days seem to have done the trick.

Another problem I had, certainly during the first week or so is the need to spend a penny, often I'm ok when cycling but as soon as I stop I need to go and I need to go straight away. I am not sure if it is partly due to all the coffee I am drinking in the morning, the cool weather I had in the first week, or just age. Often I did not have time to park the bike properly, I just straddle the bike and go, but dont worry, unlike Tim I have always missed the water bottles! The hotter weather and cutting down on the coffee seems to have helped.

Other issues include an itchy groin, well spend 10 hours a day in cycling shorts what do you expect.

And I have also had numb toes on my right foot since Germany. I think I have had this before, and the feeling returns a few days after stopping cycling.

The cure is to cream up and my daily ritual which seems to work is

Morning
Sudocream - saddle sores
Vasolene - groin
Factor 15 suncream for face (partly protected from the sun by helmet)
Factor 25 suncream for arms, legs & neck
Lipsol

Evening
Sudocream
Metanium (instead of the Vasolene)
Bite ease (in Italy I seem to grt loads of insect bites during a ride)

And maybe a top up at lunchtime.

This is partly to remind me for future tours, but I would be interested in your comments, both serious or amusing.

Day 28 - Siena to Viterbo

A pretty good but long day today in some lovely Tuscany & Lazio countryside.

I got away at 9.30 on another glorious day, but this time, after umpteen still days, I had my tailwind back. Soon after leaving Siena the roads became quiet which was a bonus as it was a main road (R2). I soon saw my first sign for Roma which said Roma 209k, this was a bit worrying as it would leave me on 2999k and I would have to do a few laps of the Coluseum to make the majic 3000k. But in true Italian style the next sign said Roma 216k, so considering I am taking minor roads tomorrow I should be ok. I also saw my first cycling tourists since the Alps, they just dont do it here, or France or Spain for that matter.

I had to take an early lunch in Podere Scala as today was the dreaded Sunday when all the shops are shut so I could not buy my normal nosebag of bananas, cereal bars and energy drinks. After lunch I immeadiatly fell asleep against the restaurant wall. I'm getting pretty tired as this is now my 15th consecutive days cycling.

The easy cycling continued after lunch until lake Bolsena. I decided to take the minor road to the west of the lake, this was pretty but also had 8ks of rutted gravel tracks. After this the roads became busy with people returning from the lakes.

I am looking forward to meeting Paula tomorrow and celebrated with a beer at Lake Bosena. Now what does the small print in the photo say....



Todays Stats
Distance 149.03k
Climb 1285m
Riding Time 6:07:27
Average speed 24.3kph (fastest so far)
Total time 9:31

Saturday 3 July 2010

Day 27 - Firenze to Siena

A short ride today (yippee), the original plan was to leave early in the morn before the heat and arrive in Siena shortly after lunch to view the sights.

I left at 1.45pm, not surprising after the very enjoyable evening the night before, but leaving in the heat of the day still feeling slightly fragile was not the best idea. Still it had to be done. I also took a slightly wrong oad out of Firenze and was heading for San Casciano when I cut through the narrow lanes to Greve in Chianti on the R222 where I wanted to be. It was along these lanes that I met a couple of pretty, black, young ladies dressed in tight white tops and pink shorts, and I'm sure they both tried to chat me up with "Ciao Bello". They should be careful, if they say that to everyone they could get picked up by some right weird blokes!

I stopped in Greve in Chianti for a late lunch suffering from heat (the temp on my computer was at 42C), tiredness and a hangover. Some coca cola food and sports energy drink seemed to help, and after lunch I cycled along some lovely rolling Tuscany countryside arriving in Siena at 7.30.

Just to give an idea of what I have been drinkig during a ride. On the full day to Firenze I drank 6 water bottles (4.2 litres), 1 litre of coke, 1 litre of gatorade (sports drink) and 1/2 litre of Iced tea. That's 6.7 litres during the ride and I normlly drink 1 litre of water both before and after a ride totalling 8.7 litres - which is nearly as much as a Rugby international day! Also since Richard left I have only had 1 beer in an evening apart from Firenze, therefore it is obviously everyone else's fault when I drink more than one beer.

I have just had a brief wander around town, and it is lovely, really relaxed great old buildings and Piazas with everyone just sitting out and chilling in the heat.

Thanks again for all your comments, please keep them coming. It's only 2 more days to go. Life without cycling is going to be weird but I really am looking forward to a couple of days in Rome with Paula, and then returning to them kidies.

Todays Stats
Distance 79.77k
Climb 1073m
Riding time 4:02:19
Average speed 19.7kph
Total time 6:03

Day 26 - Argenta to Firenze (Florence)

I was dreading today after yesterdays suffering, but was again surprised how one day you can feel totally diferent to another. It was a great ride on a hot and hilly day and to cap it off I stayed the night with Alec (Paulas cousin) his wife Nevie and their children, it was lovely to have some company again.

I got away at 9.30 and managed the first 40k at an average speed of 26kph, this took me to Castel Bolognese near Imola, and it was after here that the hills started. It had been 280k of flatlands across the Po basin where the biggest hill was the bridge over the Po, and I was looking forward to the hills for a few reasons. They are more scenic, more challenging, the traffic is slower, more bends (long straight roads are awful), quieter and because your hands more in different positions on the handle bars it means your pessure points on the saddle change resulting in a lot less pain in the nether regions. In fact today was virtually a pain free day.

I stopped for lunch in Palazzuolo after having climbed to 400m from about 30m, thinking that I would not get much higher but I was wrong. After lunch the road went up and up, but it was easy climbing with a gradient of about 4 - 6%. The roads were very quiet apart from the incessent noise of crickets and I reached the Passo Sambuca (1080m) folowed by another 1000m pass before decsending on a twisty but easy descent down to Borgo San Lorenzo. One more small climb followed where I crashed into a guy who ran across the road from behind a van without looking, we both stayed upright so no harm done, then an easy cruise to Firenze. I found Alec's address easy enough and even had time for a "birra grande" in the bar next door before they returned home.

We had a relaxing evening staying up until the early hours drinking wine, beer, eating pizza and taking a night time bike ride around the packed streets of Firenze. When I suggested we should put some bike lights on Nevie said "but we are only riding around the city". That's what is so great about biking in Italy, or most of Europe for that matter, it's so relaxed. So when we cycled down a one way street the wrong way with no lights, the police car coming against us just pulled in to let us go. I love it.

One possible reason why I was climbing quite well today is that I have developed my own theory for climbing based upon what some Pro cyclists do when cycling through tunnels (ref Day 24). They close one eye to improve their night vision & when I climb I close both eyes to see my white lycra vision!!!

Todays Stats
Distance 141.69k
Climb 1657m
Riding Time 6:31:32
Average Speed 21.7kph
Total Riding Time 9:37

Day 25 - Lido di Venezia to Argenta

When I planned the trip I thought today was going to be an easy day as it is pan flat, and after the mountains I thought I would be fit and strong, but it was really hard today, partly because my bottom boils raised their ugly heads again (more of that in a separate post) but mainly because it was hot, very hot, too hot.

After a night of little sleep in a baking bedroom which was still 27C when I was up fighting the mosquitoes at 4pm, I decided the best way to start the day was with a refreshing swim in the sea. It was glorious, only one other person in there, but as a result I did not get away until 10.30. It was a lovely start cruising down the Lido 12k to it's most southerly point Alberoni where I caught a roll-on roll-off ferry to the next island Pellestrina. Again another short ride of about 10k to catch the ferry to Chioggia on the mainland. This ferry was typical of the Venice ferries which hold more than 100 people and plenty of bikes. Choigga was a bustling harbour down enjoying market day, after Choiggia I headed inland approximately due South, my aim being to cycle as far as I could to make the following day's ride to Florence (Firenze) as easy as possible.

It was midday by the time I left Chiogga and the temperature was starting to get uncomfortably hot. I mainly followed minor roads, and having to take a minor diversion due to roadworks on one of the bridges over the extensive canal system in this part of Italy I only made it to Loreo for lunch, only 44k cycled, not good.

When I stopped for lunch in an air con restaurant there were 2 things I had noticed that morning. Firstly, a large number of people, especially young women, were cycling electric bikes which is annoying because they cycle as fast as me putting very little effort in, but mainly because they will never be shaped like the lady in white if they only cycle electric bikes! The second thing I noticed was the number of young men now carrying man-bags (basically hand-bags). These bags are far worse than Chris Parker's one, I just don't get, why the bag, it's just wallet, phone, keys, that's it.

Anyhow, after my lunch I walked outside and it was like walking into an oven, horrendous, and I had loads of ks to cycle. The thermometer on my computer seems to be accurate in the shade but in the sun reads too high, when it reads 30C it is probably about 25C, this is the temp that my normal cycle mate Dave starts to melt, on this afternoon it read 39C, Dave (and also Bill & Richard) would all simply have turned into puddles on the road! I spent the most miserable afternoon of the trip so far biking a further 55k. What added to the misery was that as the roads were flat they were also very straight and the cars and lorries just shot past me. I was trying to keep to minor roads (white roads on my Michelin map, these Italian Michelin maps are nowhere near the same quality as the French ones), sometimes these roads were just dirt tracks and other times they were busy roads there was just no way of telling. The one brief highlight of the afternoon was the sun went in for seven minutes (yep, I timed it) it came out as I crossed the massive river Po.

My bottom boils (saddle sores) were becoming a bit of an issue as well, and I stopped in Tresigallo for Coca Cola and ice cream and an hours break. When I emerged it was after 6pm and a little cooler as I limped on another 30 odd ks to Argenta where I stopped for the night being quite concerned about my saddle sores as I had about 140k to ride the following day including crossing the Apennines.

Todays stats
Distance 133.09k
Climb 183m (basically pan flat)
Riding time 5:42:05
Average speed 23.3kph
Total time 9:41   

Day 24 - Pordone to Lido di Venezia

Firstly I'd like to apologise for the late posting of this post. Secondly I'd like to point out that it is nearly 4am local time therefore I have been drinking for some 9 hours therefore amongst other things my spelling may be somewhat erratic.

Anyhow, back to biking. When I woke this morning I wasn't sure whether the flat roads of last night had been a dream. After 7 days, 12 mountain passes and 13000m of climbing could those mountains really have disappeared by cycling through one tunnel? It was true, all I could see of the mountains as I headed off at 10.30 was a distant backdrop of what had been my constant companion for the last week.

Today was meant to be my rest day but due to an over ambitious plan, I had to bike to to the Lido di Venezia which is a narrow strip of land that protects Venice from the Adriatic Sea, to catch up to where I should be. By the time I started it was already hot, the road was pan flat and I just headed South stopping in Crepaldo for lunch, when asking the waitress to top up my water bottles, she half loaded them with ice before adding the water, what a star! But unfortunately by the time I wanted to drink the water it was already luke warm. (tip - in hot climates put one of your water bottles in your pannier, it keeps it cooler for longer).

I carried on heading south through Jeselo to Lido di Jeselo and after 3 weeks of cycling since Bolougne  I finally saw the sea. What can I say? Not quite Broad Haven, Barrafundle, Freshwater East or any of the fantastic Pembrokeshire beaches, more like Southend except there was Sea not Mud and instead of the Golden Mile there was the Golden 10 miles. That is 10 miles of tat, slot machines and hotels,, ummm. I carried on South West to the Point Sabbioini where I wanted to catch the ferry to the Lido di Venizia. At the ticket office I was told:
"you need to check with the captain to see if the boat will take bikes. the boats are small"
Fortunately the Captain said yes, and after a short ferry journey I was on what was once the most famous Seaside  Resort in Italy, now looking a little tired but much better than the Lido di Jesolo. Aftyer finding my hotel I bought some swimming cossies and went for a swim in the small public swimming area, the vast majority of beaches being owned by hotels. After biking from England to the Adriatic, and now baking in the heat i need ed a swim, and  it was great.

After a a quick shower in the hotel I headed to Venice for the evening, I wasn't really that keen to go but felt I should as I was so close to it. The canals and narrow streets were ok but St Marks Square was a disapiontment due to the amount of scaffolding and grubby buildings and after a couple of hours I felt happy to be heading back to the Lido.

Todays Stats
Distance 94.03k
Climb 119m
Riding Time 4:09:56
Average Speed 22.5kph
Total time 6:30